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Andrew Pedley on Axewound / Pitfighter

Andrew Pedley recently opened 2 new routes above the benchmark grade of 30. They are Axewound 32 at Wigwam and Pitfighter 31 at Boven.

AXEWOUND

When did you bolt the route?
I bolted Axewound when we first went to WigWam over a year ago, thinking it would be quite easy, but what I didn’t notice at the time is that there is a section of 1.5 metres with no proper holds.

How long did you work the route for?
I left the route for 8 months before trying it one day and managed to stick the crux move; a really accurate chuck for a finger jug from a poor pinch and gaston. Sticking that move from the ground took many redpoints (over 25) but I think someone stronger could do it very quickly, someone who has some boulder strength. Maybe its soft..I look forward to seeing someone on it. The accuracy required of the crux move makes it really interesting. All the routes at Wigwam are ace, move-for-move I rate them as the best in the country and there are more lines to go.

How did the route get it’s name?
Axewound was next to Tomahawk (a throwing axe) so I figured it was an apt name..later I learnt that this is a rude term and I have had plenty of complaints from girls about it… but so far Wigwam has been a real guys outing, so it gets pretty crude in there!

Any Arb / funny info about the route?
Other than the horrid name and the inordinate amount of tries it took me to get it, no. Oh yeah, ironically I cut my arm open on another project, a really bad gaping axewound-like gash (6 stitches) down to the muscle 2 days before opening the route, hardcore. I think it focused me.

Andrew on Pitfighter Photo ©: Irene Abraham

Andrew on Pitfighter Photo ©: Irene Abraham

PITFIGHTER

When did you bolt the route?
The original route (Stitch-it 29) was bolted by Dewald Kloppers but I added another bolt and chains to create a direct version as Stitch-it, though cool, avoided the small holds near the top by moving rightwards to finish. It is now a straight-up no messing around 7C+ boulder problem, up an amazing 20 degree overhanging wall, very un-Boven-like. Its only 5 m high, but from the first move to the top its full throttle. If only the landing wasn’t total death, some crazy mo-fo might try it without a rope.

How long did you work the route for?
In between getting pumped and scared on Space Cadet, I spent 3 days over 3 weekends but one of those was spent moving the rocks to create the PIT (below) which was exhausting but improved my core strength :)

How did the route get it’s name?
It’s a fight, out from a pit – The route is on a steep, smooth wall on the back of a leaning free standing block. Flex, Dewald, myself and others moved about 6 tonnes of rock over 2 days to clean up the base to make it free of big scary boulders, leaving a large bowl; its such a stunning pure line now. It was totally mad moving all those boulders, we were like crazed animals for a few hours, but it was definitely worth it. Its the best short route I have done, slopers, techy heel hooks, crimps and one jug – the top of the boulder. It will be a real testpiece. I just wish we had more steep rock like that, perhaps if we put some dynamite behind the Tranquilitas crag….Mike, could we do that?

Andrew on Pitfighter Photo ©: Irene Abraham

Andrew on Pitfighter Photo ©: Irene Abraham

Any Arb / funny info about the route?
I always thought Flex was a slacker until I saw him moving those 100 kg blocks, that guy can lift his own bodyweight and throw it 20 metres!

Andrew is sponsored by Blue Water ropes and Evolv shoes.

 

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Related article:  Andrew Pedley Interview

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