Stuart working “My Route Down By The River”
Changing your mind set!
“It’s time to get fit!”, we are all saying. But the bare realities are all so obvious, “Oh no! Starting from scratch,
again!”
Remember, rule number one is, stay reasonably fit!
You shouldn’t have gone overboard with the eating and being slack! Second rule, TAKE IT SLOW! Having the same expectations you finished off with last summer will only hurt, cause damage and make you realize that you have a long way to go, and depression will set in. Don’t stress, there is light at the end of the tunnel. After having been through many lay off’s myself, I have a few tips to help you ease your way back into shape and get you fired up to reach new heights and bag those projects.
First of all believe, that before you know it, you will be back to where you left off. Once you have your mind around that one, it’s time to pick up a guide book and pick out some of the routes you couldn’t do last summer.
To make the whole thing really interesting add a few even harder projects. With all your goals in place make a second list of some of the best routes you have climbed
and some of the classic moderates that you haven’t. Take this second list, head out and ease into things with some great climbing. This is what it’s all really about, isn’t it.
After three to five weeks of enjoyable relaxed climbing, you will find your focus is better, you are feeling good again on the rock, and the desire for the harder routes is now manifesting in your mind. Together with some jogging or biking, some general weights training and the odd day on the beach catching a tan the good old you will
be back and rearing to go! This is when the first list comes out.
“Why shouldn’t it be hard to get back to where I was”, you might be asking. “I worked so hard to get there last summer”.
Well, your brain has the ability to recall body memory, or engram’s. This is stored information of automatic movement or reaction, and will be brought back up to scratch soon after starting to climb again. Another thing counting in your favour is – you have had a good rest and the body will be in a position to take on the new challenges, once it has had a chance to warm up. Remember starting slow and start thinking like an athlete.
For those of you who really want to get somewhere this summer, my advice to you is, structure your climbing well and do not limit yourself to things you can do, things that do not work, or remain in your comfort zone. Once your body has been primed properly, let the training begin.
Work routes one or two grades harder than your max, for example, if you are wanting to point that 24 from last season, work a 26. Even if you do not have a chance to do the route, the training effect will be huge and the next time you get on your project everything will seem so much easier. If you are interested in doing a training program, then this is the time to be working on your power.
Three to five move boulder problems, six second hangs on a finger board and try one arm lock off’s. Don’t worry too much about the endurance, in four to six weeks that stage can begin. Endurance is obtained by spending as much time climbing continuously. Remember, think like an athlete. Get a stop watch and climb for twenty to forty minutes non stop. This will give you endurance. Do a short power session before hand, just to keep honed. And never underestimate what you can do.
Believe!
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