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New Routes at Wolfberg

Prisoner of the Sun, Wolfberg

Anthony Hall pulling through to the giggle jugs on Prisoner of the Sun. His frontal lobotomy certainly cheered him up!

‘Destination Moon’ and ‘Prisoners of the Sun’

One of the incredible privileges of living in Africa is that it is still possible to walk up to a popular crag and open good quality moderate trad routes. On a blistering hot summer’s morning, some scouting and sleuthing led the intrepid trio to the ‘Quite Something’ sector at Wolfberg.

After much guidebook scrutiny and finger pointing reminiscent of Rommel in the desert, we set off to bag two excellent lines, both of moderate grades, on excellent rock, in awe inspiring situations.

‘Prisoners of the Sun’

Start:
Walk past ‘Eclipse’ and 20m right of ‘Quite Something’ is a large pile of blocks. Start at the top of the pile of blocks.

1. 45m 18. Step up onto a small ledge and walk right until you stand on top of a free standing block. Do a grunt of a pull-up and head upwards. Pass a ledge, then up and right until you can traverse right beneath a roof and across an exposed corner, emerging on the belay ledge. This is atop the golden nose visible from the ground.

2.
40m 17. Once again, do a grunt of a pull-up and ascend the recess. A large, deep crack opens ahead of one. Climb jugs up the wall left of the crack, stepping right across the crack at the top and railing under the roof. Climb up easy ground to a large ledge.

Alternate. 15. At the base of the crack head right for 4m and up the friendly jugs to the big ledge.
Walk 40m left scrambling up a short ramp just to the right of the big gully until you are at the base of a small crack that cuts through a grey roof.

3. 25m 18 (one move). Do a grunt of a pull-up from the rails. Giggle jugs take you to the top.

Opening Party: A. Wood, A. Hall and S. Larsen  February 2010

Destination Moon

Start: Walk past ‘Eclipse’ and in between ‘Quite Something’ and ‘Molestor’ is a laser cut crack that rises between two blocks.

1. 45m 18. Ascend the crack on polished rock and step left through a small roof. Climb up to the bottomless crack and follow this on fantastic jugs for the next 30m to a ledge.

2.
35m 19. Step right for a metre or two and pull up on some musical flakes. After 12m traverse rightwards onto golden rock to a smooth inverted shield. Ascend the shield to a small cubbyhole beneath the roof. Climb up to and through the gap to mount the diving board of a ledge.

Alternate: 16 Head slightly leftwards following a series of cracks and corners to the big ledge.

3 & 4. 70m Head for the surface of the moon.

Opening Party: A. Wood and S. Larsen  February 2010

Click on images to enlarge
Simon Larsen

Larsen having finished the grunt of a pull-up on the final pitch.

Andy Wood

Andy Wood feeling small and insignificant on the golden rock of Destination Moon

Wolfberg RD

Destination Moon. Image courtesy of Blue Mountain Publishers

Prisoners of the Sun, Wolfberg. Image courtesy of Blue Mountain Publishers

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