Here goes, I’m lying in my freezing pool, mid winter snow on the mountains, I’m staring up at the starry sky. I can feel my heart beating stronger and slower as it tries to keep the vitals going. Ignoring my primitive sensations of cold, I start feel warm and fuzzy inside. I can feel the inflammation going down on my shoulder, feeling the blood rushing through my veins, restoring what I have done during my training.
So training, you wanna start training… where is it gonna get you?
“You read the rock, like a partition in music, you have to move, be smooth and understand the movement” -Fred Nicole! To create a masterpiece you also need to have the right conditioning and discipline, musicians dedicate hours to practice to perfect their art…
I see climbing conditioning as no different, of course if one could climb on hard king lines 24/7 you will get super strong/fit and have buckets of psyche. Personally I have long periods of little hard rock climbing to do, lots of time to ‘undo’ the psyche. So you have to keep the internal/eternal psyche going, finding ways to receive energy to put in the 100% sessions.
Essentially training is an expression of self, a extension of climbing on rock…
Departure from these standings, you structure the training…
Point: Climbing hard long bouldery routes, April-September 2010
Improvements: left shoulder, now also right shoulder, 2finger/1finger pocket strength, grip endurance, forearm endurance, VO2max, recovery between sets, weight experiment.
Departing with these goals, I prioritise them, first is 100% non-tweakedness, then grip endurance, shoulder strengthening, and recovery. You have to first sort out any niggles you might have with your form, old injuries creeping up(or just a old ghost that manifest itself in you psychie and pretends to bother), if you haven’t ironed out the wrinkles, it will slow down the whole system. One can also start a system that guides itself by healing injuries and pushes on different aspects of training. It is very important to see recovery as part of the training ‘program’. The faster you can recover the more you can train.
After building up with an hour a day (3months) endurance with small holds, (grip intensive), on a 10deg steep wall, I was feeling comfortable with my shoulder and I could go to France and climb whatever I felt like. It was low and slow, but I stuck through it, listening to my body the whole time. Now, a year down the line I’m fitter and stronger than I’ve ever been and I can train as hard and as long as I want:
06:00: 10min swim with hand paddles in pool(warms shoulders &pectorals) 1hour climbing on 15deg wall, grip intensive (hand/grip&forearm endurance) 5min sets on/off the wall, (alternating with lockoff’s/pocket training during off time) note: this is when hand/grip endurance is more focused and doesn’t work biceps 10min swim with hand paddles to warm down and skip shower before work!
Eat: No carbo-loading, eat smaller portions more regularly “Gesonde kos is Lekke kos!”
12:30: 20min swim to cool down in the summer heat, enhances recovery and good circulation, also gets you fit and sorts out the shoulders & burns the fat!
Eat: With three main meals, I have supplements: Real Thing – Joint Revolution, Barley Grass, Electrolyte/mineral equalizer. When doing extensive training day on day on day…. its very important to keep the balance of re-courses right it will sustain your physical/mental energy.
5:30: 30min mountain bike or 800m swim in dam with hand paddles to warm & push cardio. 2hours climbing, for as long as you can keep form. For me this is forearm/grip endurance, so the time is spent getting hard, shaking it off, doing it again and again and… grip grip grip till you can crimp on a credit card/pinch a small bokkie to death when you’re forearms are rock hard and ‘feeling like exploding’. 10min warm down either swimming or rowing or cycling, move around and get the blood flowing again, remember if you recover you can do it all again tomorrow.
Eat a little before, during & after training, fruit is good to sustain the sugar levels in the blood, and is much healthier & cheaper than energy drinks.
So this is my slightly over-exaggerated training schedule, would like to do this every day, but there are inconsistencies day to day… Enjoy
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