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The Bold and the Beautiful – New Crag in Montagu

In April this year Riki & Justin Lawson together with Stuart Brown of De Bos, started bolting a new crag.

The crag is about 35/40 meters high and the climbing is awesome!
The path is good but quite steep and care needs to be taken upon walking up and down.   As more people go up, the path will become more eroded and a path building / Crag base meet will need to happen sometime in the near future.  Don’t be shy ;)

The crag has huge potential for new routes (as does the whole of Montagu).  The crag is also out of the sun for all of the day, so this will be a really great summer spot to climb at.

New Bolting Policy in Montagu:
I’m sure everyone is aware of the closure of Bosch Kloof.  I have been tasked by the  Montagu Mountain Committee to manage new routes in Montagu.
So if you want to bolt a new line in Montagu, please send me the details with a picture of the route(s) that you want to bolt.  I will give you the go ahead via email.

You can send applications to info@climbing.co.za and make the subject New Routes Montagu

As with the rest of the Western Cape, only 316 Stainless Steel Rolled bolts are allowed to be used for bolting routes in Montagu.  Check the Anchor Replacement Fund page for more information.

Crag Beta:
Walk in time: 15 mins
Rope:  60 meter (always tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are 30 meters in length)
Draws: +/- 15
Sun:  All day shade

If you would like to bolt a new line but have never bolted before / don’t have access to a drill, drop me an email and I’d be happy to bolt the line for you (you supply the hardware).
Below are topos / directions to the crag – Click the image to make them bigger.

Wiki Link: Riverside Crags Topo

Bold and the Beautiful Topo

Riverside Crags

Riverside Crags

17 Responses to The Bold and the Beautiful – New Crag in Montagu

  1. BradCT Jul 23, 2010 at 7:19 pm #

    Heya! Well done Gents!
    Wife and I heading up within the next week or two and looking fw to sampling what sounds like an exciting crag. Like the topo. :-)

  2. admin Jul 23, 2010 at 8:42 pm #

    Gents!! Oi. I’m no gent! Riki = Justin’s wife.
    & it’s a pleasure on the topo.

    :- ) it is a very nice crag.
    have fun
    let us know what you think of the routes

  3. Bren Jul 25, 2010 at 3:14 pm #

    Guys, this looks absolutely AWESOME!! Well done. Can’t wait to get to Montagu again and go check these route out! Big UP!!

  4. BradCT Jul 26, 2010 at 9:12 am #

    LOL. So sorry Riki!!!
    Well done Lady and Gents! Thank you once again for the effort, update. Heading up on the weekend of the 14/15 Aug and will certainly let you know.

  5. Justin Jul 26, 2010 at 10:11 am #

    Enjoy it, remember to use your shoulder or just ‘go for it’ when climbing ‘Moby Dick’. We were there on Sunday and there were some discrepancies about the grades of the easier climbs – so feedback will be appreciated.

  6. Bianca Jul 29, 2010 at 10:27 am #

    So the lizard went along…nice shirt Justin!

  7. Justin Aug 1, 2010 at 10:39 pm #

    Anyone visit the B&B this weekend?
    Comments? :)

  8. Alex Aug 2, 2010 at 8:48 am #

    Not yet but am heading down this long weekend with my GF and cant wait to pull into the B&B crag!!!!
    SHOT GUYS!!!!!!

  9. Justin Aug 2, 2010 at 9:55 am #

    Sweet, enjoy it.
    There is still loads of route potential there!!

    Remember if you spot a line and would like to make it a route but don’t have a drill, I am happy to drill the route (bolt ) for you. You just need to supply the hardware.

  10. Brendon Aug 4, 2010 at 1:19 pm #

    I didn’t know about the closure of Bosch Crag (been too long since my last visit to Montagu). May I ask why this has happened?

  11. Justin Aug 5, 2010 at 7:02 am #

    See: http://www.climb.co.za/2010/03/montagu-crag-closures-bosch-kloof-closed
    & http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5670&hilit=bosch

    Real Soap Drama I tell you – along with a bit of Snot & Trana :)

  12. Justin Aug 10, 2010 at 9:28 am #

    Anyone go up there this weekend? What did you think about the crag / routes?

  13. Alex Aug 10, 2010 at 11:06 am #

    Hey we went up on Sunday, walked the nice steep walk in (warm up). My girlfiend did dirty litte secret then……the rain she came….scrambled down quick and straight back to debos for coffee and unfortunitly did not head back. Was so looking forward to try out the routs.. Had a look and look pretty cool though. Sorry but got no worth while feedback, guess we will just have to go back!!!!!

  14. Justin Aug 10, 2010 at 11:16 am #

    Aaaw no! Too bad about the rain, thanks for the feedback :)

  15. BradCT Aug 17, 2010 at 10:24 am #

    Heya gents and lady.
    As mentioned Sandy an I were up @ B&B this weekend and climbed most the routes.
    Well done. Some really fantastic lines!!!! Great bolt placement and nice variety! Grades all seem about right, although we didn’t get to section C.
    You picked out some awesome lines, although if you’re not climbing straight towards the next bolt, it is quite easy to climb around any tricky sections and/ or miss a potentially great move because you sway off too far left or right? The belay positions are also on a pretty awkward angle and as you mentioned in your write up, erosion will def become a prob as this great crag is frequented more often. Whoever grabs the bull by the horns on this one, please post a heads up and we will certainly do what we can to contribute efforts.
    Thank you Justin, Riki and Stu! Really enjoyed all the climbing.
    PS. We had a day visitor who was very keen to grab our food. Baboons a plenty up on this slope!

  16. Justin Aug 19, 2010 at 8:37 am #

    Hi Brad,
    Thanks very much for the update – glad you enjoyed it and found the routes / bolting to be good.
    I’ll be making a general call for a ‘path / base build’ sometime soon.

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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    [...] soon as time allows I will be building up the path and more standing platforms at the Bold and The Beautiful Crag –  At present there are only two platforms from a previous pathbuild and the path is in need of [...]

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