Saturday, Sept 25th , French climber Gérôme Pouvreau has done the first ascent of Aubade directe, 9a/a+ at Sainte Victoire, near Aix en Provence.
The route was bolted by Christophe Da Conceicao and has two possible exits: the classic version turns on the right, has an exit “easier” and is rated 8c+. It remained to free the direct version, 12 meters more very bouldery and technical.
After two or three falls just after the last crux (a long move to gain a small crack), Saturday Gérôme carried out the FA, also taking advantage of good weather conditions, 15 ° and mistral at 70 km / h .
He suggests the grade 9a/a+.
Gérôme’s girlfriend, Florence Pinet, in meanwhile has done a couple of 8b: “Twin pinch” in Sainte-Victoire and the legendary “Les mains sales” on the west wall of Buoux.
read more on Kairn (french)
[...] Directe, a route somewhere in the hard 5.14 easy 5.15 range at Sainte Victoire, France that was first done last year by Gérôme Pouvreau. Look for footage of the send some time in the near future on [...]