Saturday, Sept 25th , French climber Gérôme Pouvreau has done the first ascent of Aubade directe, 9a/a+ at Sainte Victoire, near Aix en Provence.
The route was bolted by Christophe Da Conceicao and has two possible exits: the classic version turns on the right, has an exit “easier” and is rated 8c+. It remained to free the direct version, 12 meters more very bouldery and technical.
After two or three falls just after the last crux (a long move to gain a small crack), Saturday Gérôme carried out the FA, also taking advantage of good weather conditions, 15 ° and mistral at 70 km / h .
He suggests the grade 9a/a+.
Gérôme’s girlfriend, Florence Pinet, in meanwhile has done a couple of 8b: “Twin pinch” in Sainte-Victoire and the legendary “Les mains sales” on the west wall of Buoux.
read more on Kairn (french)