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New Route: Jabulani at Yellowwood Amphitheatre

Johannes Steidl (left) and Gerhard Fiegl (right)

The route “Jabulani” was first ascended by SALEWA athlete Gerhard Fiegl and Johannes Steidl in the beginning of September and is located on the right side of the wall were a big system of corners is obviously seen from the ground. The seven pitches ascending the top consist climbing of different style, like corners, cracks, slabs, overhangs, etc. and offer, except from one passage at the beginning of the second

pitch, an excellent rock quality and enjoyable climbing.
We do not know the history of the wall exactly, but we couldn’t find out anny information about routes in that part of the wall and there were also no clues or traces of previous climbers found during the ascent.

Start: The start is on the left side of the yellow part of the wall below a big corner on the right side of the Amphitheatre, directly above the yellowwood trees on a ledge and is signed by a cairn.

Pitch 1: There are two handcracks seen from the bottom, follow up the right one on the right side of (50m) a small roof. 7a+ Climb up a bit leftwards to a horizontal finger crack under a small roof. Place some pro and fight your way up through a slab on very small holds.  Head on to the right and bottom of the big yellow corner. There is a belay with one bolt and one peg.

Pitch 2: Squeeze through the initial part of the corner and head on following this corner, sometimes a (40m) bit left of it on fingerholes until you reach the 2nd belay on a bolt and peg again. 6b+

Pitch 3: Traverse 1m below the belay to the right, out of the corner and climb up the edge on some (35m) exposed moves until you reach the next belay (two pegs) on a small ledge just above the big 6c+ roof on the right side, in the corner again.

Pitch 4: From the belay step out left side of the corner and find your way up just to the bottom of the (40m) upper part of the big corner, on the big ledge where you see a good possibility to set up a 5c belay with natural protection (friends).

Pitch 5: Climb up on the left side of the big corner to the next belay a bit on the left side on a small (35m) ledge. (1x bolt + 1x peg). 6c

Pitch 6: Follow the natural obvious structure upwards slightly leading to the left side. Cope some slab (35m) moves and two small roofs until you reach the belay under a roof on a bolt and peg again. 7a

Pitch 7: Pull through the roof on nice holds (a bit exposed) to finally reach the last and not so steep (55m) part of the wall.
7a The last 40m contain, if climbing straight, some nice cracks and steeper sections directly to the belay on the ridge (two pegs), which is quite straight above the belay of pitch 6.

Click here for a Grade Conversion Table

Descent:
Rappel down the pitches to the big ledge half way up. The second rappel (=pitch 6) needs a bit of traversing to the right, which is no problem, because there is a little ledge and one can walk easily,
still hanging on the rope, to the right and the belay.
From the big ledge use the rappels of Charles Edelstein’s new descent rappel route which leads you to the ground (if you have long enough 60m ropes!)

Click here to see more Yellowwood Routes in the Wiki

Jabulani topo rough

Click to enlarge

Yellowwood Amphitheatre - Jabulani

Yellowwood Amphitheatre, Jabulani - Click to enlarge

More pics on gerhardfiegl.com

4 Responses to New Route: Jabulani at Yellowwood Amphitheatre

  1. Hilton Davies Oct 28, 2010 at 9:22 pm #

    Bruce Daniel and I established this line early this year. I named it Judgment Time. Offered the story to Tony Lourens for SA Mountain Sport and Cally Henderson for MCSA Journal. Tony declined because he wants to do a story on all of Yellowwood. My first effort was with Alan Ross on 31 March. Then did the route a few days later on 8 April with Bruce. The only significant variation is pitch 3 where I went straight up to the huge roof and desperately climbed out right.

  2. Willem Boshoff (mok) Oct 29, 2010 at 6:29 am #

    looks like an amazing line! must be a bummer for these guys thinking they nabbed a FA.
    hilton, did you guys give it the same grade?

  3. Hector Oct 29, 2010 at 7:52 am #

    And more importantly, did you place any bolts or pegs? I’m guessing no otherwise the foreigners would have known its an existing route

  4. Justin Nov 1, 2010 at 12:05 pm #

    I am happy to report that there the two parties took different lines (crossing over once in a while).

    Hilton and Gerry have been communicating – follow this link for Hilton’s explanation/RD http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=32178#p32178

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