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Adam Ondra – La Capella 9B First Ascent

Adam Ondra, South Africa, Montagu

Adam Ondra on Mazawattee 35/8c+ in Montagu, South Africa. Photo by Riki Lawson

On Feb, 17th, Adam Ondra has done the FA of La Capella in Siurana, Spain, a 15 meters pitch bolted on 1996 by David and Carles Brasco.Ondra worked on the route 7 days during this trip and two days last year and sent it at the last try of the last day.

Here an exclusive interview by Pierre Délas and Björn Pohl
How long is this route ? How many moves ? Which style exactly ?
The route is about 15 meters long, but the crux is its first half through beautiful wave-like-cave, the part above the lip is not more than 7c+. It can be described as two boulder problems in a row with no rest in between, only two half-pad crimps to clip. It is very short, but the line and its remote location in frequented Siurana appealed me a lot. It is an obvious challenge, you can see the holds from the ground and you are sure it is preetty hard, but obviously there is something to climb on. The first boulderproblem above 2nd bolt consists about 4 hard on moves on small gastons and crimps with very high heelhook, which seemed to me as the only foothold of this section. The second boulder problem is quite opposite – weird, open holds, bad feet, long moves and once again not more than 5 moves. Both of them could be around 8A+, maybe 8B the second one. Above second crux there is still one more awkward section to get over the lip of the cave, where I can imagine it is still highly possible to fall. 

Do you think the future of extreme rockclimbing is to climb short routes like “la Capella” or Sharma’s “First round first minute” ?

Well, it is quite interesting concept, mixture of bouldering and sport climbing together, something I have always loved since I have spent plenty of time at home crags and Frankenjura. But I don’t say it is the future of climbing, long routes have also its charm and there will always be people who will prefer that or that. 

Which competition you will do in 2011 ? Lead ? Boulder ? Both ?
I won’t compete in the whole World cup circuit in either discipline, the main target is World Championship in Arco, where I am participating in both, though lead has an absolute priority.

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