Andrew recently made the first Ascent of ‘Rodan’ (34), with Andrew summing it up: ‘immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate!‘
Other FA’s consist of: ‘Welcome to Ovamboland’ (31), ‘Psyche Ward’ (31), ‘The Bovenator’ (28) all at Boven.
He also made the second ascent of a line opened by ‘Hard-Kid’ Adam Ondra called ‘The Emporer’ (32) at Waterkloof in Bavianskloof. “I had 3 days to do it and got it on tired arms at the end of day 3. Super psyched to go where only Ondra has gone before!”
Then Spain happened, what went down was ‘Chacals’ (32), Rodellar, known as ‘THE 8b’ at Rodellar, 30 metres of white porcelain tufa pulling’, and ‘Zona 0’ (32), Siurana, ‘crimp all the way to the chains, be sure to try it in sub 15 degrees, otherwise those Siurana crimpers get super greasy.’
And the most fun of all, Andrew’s new project declared ‘OPEN’: Digital Warfare project, ‘probably (grade) 35, at a new crag in the Freestate. It is an unbelievable line, the best I have ever been on and prettier than anything in Europe… the worlds first 6 star line. Hopefully I can get back there soon, or someone else, its an open project. A big prize!’
Andrew was reportedly seen recently in the Cape, where he made an ‘onsight’ of TM trad classic ‘No Longer at Ease’, 25 ‘The walk in was harder than the climb (seriously!). Classic though, I can see why the Capies love that s*%t.’
Finally, Andrew mentioned something that we also agree on: ‘Apparently I once said..’a rope is a rope is a rope’… but BlueWater ropes do last longest (unless you are 70 kgs and take 2 metre dogging falls) and skinnier than their counterparts at the same reported diameter. As for Evolv shoes… I opened every climb at the God No! Wall in Evolv Talons. The rubber is soft so they don’t last long, but they do stick better than the rest to the tiniest, crappiest footholds. I also love a downturn for small holds, even if its vertical.’
Matt Bush is kicking it as well, and has especially been seen in Llandudno lately, sending some great new boulder problems and sport routes. He’s decided to send us less words, but more pictures, and boy, a picture does speak more than a thousand words…
Matt recently sent bouldering problems ‘Children of Llandudno’ (8A+), ‘Get Over It’ (7C), ‘Thin Air’ (8a), and completed the route ‘Mr Incredible’ in Oudtshoorn (8a+) that was featured as the final on the recent Rock and Road competition. Matt was the only one of the competitors that sent the route and says it’s a ‘brilliant line’.
Matt went on to do a stunning Free Solo of Daze of Thunder, a coveted grade 28 in Montagu, well over 16m high!!! It’s a beautiful line that many a sport climber wants to send one day, but alas: with a rope, please! And Matt cruised it with a meagre ground sheet on the bottom, inspiring, sick stuff!
Matt had the following to say about the gear he uses:
“My Favourite Shoes: Evolve Pontas. The Pontas are for me a perfect blend of precision and comfort. I feel comfortable in my shoes whilst having perfect friction and edging potential at my feet-tips.”
As for Matt’s rope: “I climb with the Lightning Pro on projects. The Pro is an easy handling rope that is good for projects. It is durable and it provides me with a sense of safety allowing me to climb with peace of mind when pushing my limits off the deck. The dominator is my all time favourite rope. When I climb with it hardly feel its presence. It is super light and easy to handle.“
So, don’t hesitate to come around CityROCK, and have a look at our stunning range of ropes, trad climbing gear, chalk, or come and try on a pair of Evolv or FiveTen shoes.
You won’t be disappointed regarding price or quality!