Jimbo Smith climbing at the Rockmaster 2011. Photo by Margherita Introna
Faye Brouard and Paul Brouard took the title of Rock Masters 2011.
Saturday (10/12/2011) Cape Town’s City Rock, held the Rock Master Cape Town Competition of 2011. Mountain Extreme Events brought an exciting competition where SA’s top talent competed for the title of “Rock Master”.
This year Bouldering was introduced to the competition with 5 problems being set and each competitor having 5 minutes to complete each problem. Points were scored for most top-outs and bonus points achieved.
The lead competition consisted of two onsight rounds for both men and woman to decide the winners.
Faye Brouard was back this year competing to retain her title of Rock Master 2010.
Many new faces were seen competing this year with the likes of Max Martini and Calrin Curtis who competed in the Youth World Champs in Austria 2011.
This was a night definitely not to be missed!
Thanks to all the sponsors: Black Diamond, Petzl, Five Ten, First Ascent, Mountain Mail Order, MCSA, Tendon, Beal, Extremely South Africa, Saltic, Climb ZA, Red Earth, Darling Wine Cellars and SA Mountain Sport
Congratulations to both Faye and Paul Brouard of KZN who have claimed the title of Rock Master 2011
Pictures from the comp can be viewed on the SA Mountain Facebook Page. Courtesy of GUY ORLIK.
RESULTS:
Women Lead: 1.Faye Brouard 2.Rachelle de Charmoy 3.Illona Pelser. Photo Guy Orlik
Women Lead:
1.Faye Brouard
2.Rachelle de Charmoy
3.Illona Pelser
Mens Lead:
1.Paul Brouard
2.Benjamin de Charmoy
3.Jamie Smith
4.James Barnes
5.Paul Bruyere
6.Harry Crews / Max Martini
7.Guy Patterson-Jones
8.Calrin Curtis
9.Phlip Olivier
10.Greg Oudhof
11.Andrew Wood
12.Jahne Theron
Mens lead: 1.Paul Brouard 2.Benjamin de Charmoy 3.Jamie Smith. Photo Guy Orlik
Women Bouldering:
1.Faye Brouard
2.Rachelle de Charmoy
3.Illona Pelser
4.Rachel Strate
Mens Bouldering:
1.Paul Brouard
2.Andrew Wood
3.Jamie Smith
4.James Barnes
5.Marijus Smigelskis
6.Bemjamin de Charmoy
7.Paul Bruyere
Mens Bouldering: 1.Paul Brouard 2.Andrew Wood 3.Jamie Smith. Photo Guy Orlik
8.Max Martini
9.Carlin Curtis
10.Phlip Olivier
11.Guy Patterson-Jones
12.Jahne Theron
13.Harry Crews
14.Greg Oudhof
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Date: Saturday, 10 December 2011
Venue: CityROCK
Format: Modelled on the ultra successful Rock Master Competition and Rock Legends Awards held every year in Arco, Italy – the premier climbing competition in the world.
- All athletes compete by invite only
- Only the very best climbers are invited
- Roughly 10 men and 10 women for each discipline
Mission
To stage a climbing competition that brings climbers together from around South Africa (and ultimately from around the globe) – competitors and spectators alike. An event that will be hailed as THE event to compete in, where the best of the best rise to the challenge for the prestige of been crowned Rock Master Champion.
Live commentary and exciting, expert route setting are used to build crowd interest and attendance, so as to add to the entertainment factor of the event.
- You can download the info pack and full program
Road closures due to the Obz Festival - Click to enlarge
Competitors for Rock Master 2011
MENS
Paul Bruyere (GAUT) – Lead & Boulder
Phlip Olivier (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Guy patterson Jones (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Paul Brouard (KZN) – Lead & Boulder
Jamie Smith (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Matt Bush (WP) – Lead & Boulder
James Barnes (KZN) – Lead & Boulder
Marijus Smigelskis (WP) – Boulder
Andrew Wood (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Harry Crews (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Greg Oudhof (GAUT) – Lead & Boulder
Calrin Curtis (GAUT) – Lead & Boulder
Jahne Theron (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Max Martini (WP) – Lead & Boulder
Mathieu Schneuwly (KZN) – Lead & Boulder
WOMENS
Karen Varga (WP) – Lead
Faye Brouard (KZN) - Lead & Boulder
Candice Bagley (KZN) – Lead & Boulder
Illona Pelser (KZN) – Lead & Boulder
Rachel Strate (WP) - Boulder
Rachelle De Charmoy (KZN) - Lead & Boulder
Julia Chen (WP) – Boulder
Monika Kastner (WP) – Boulder
Catherine Scott (EC)- Lead & Boulder
Bouldering Competition
1. Five problems are set
2. All competitors have 5 minutes on each problem
3. 5 Minute break between each different problem
4. Scores from all problems are added together to reach a total
5. If there is a tie, then a superfinal will be set
Lead Climbing Competition
1. Two routes are set – one for men and one for women
2. All routes are treated as onsights (climbers still to climb will be in isolation)
3. The women each have one go at their route, scoring according to the height gained
4. The men each have one go at their route, scoring according to the height gained
5. Two new routes are set – one for men and one for women
6. The women each have one go at their second route, scoring according to the height gained
7. The men each have one go at their second route, scoring according to the height gained
8. Scores for the two routes get added to reach a total
Rock Legends Awards
Cape Town – 10 December 2011
This is an award ceremony to recognize the achievements of climbers in the year of 2011.
- You can download the info pack and full program
Rather strange that Arjan, Pedley, Brian, Steve, Ben, Flex etc were not invited. Its makes one rather curious as to the selection criteria….
I’m guessing the people you’ve mentioned above (and the etc’s) were invited but either declined, couldn’t make it or are not climbing fit ?
Yeah, I agree. They probably declined or couldn’t compete. We were all sent a mail first to see if we were available on the date of comp.
I like that the bouldering comp format was changed. I am definitely more psyched now. Thanks!
Hahaha I love how Marijus is the only dude not entering the lead… typical
i have a wedding in stellenbosch that same afternoon. i climbed in the lead last year remember…
I can’t exactly understand this comment either??? And Marijus is actually helping out by setting the ladies routes.
Streaky – it’s just smack talk. I think you’ve been in CT for too long
I agree that Village Idiots comments are a bit unfair, however it is a pity Arjan isn’t in the country for it. i’m keenly looking forward to the event tho- should be epic
Agree: Pity Arjan can’t be there (and Marijus for the lead) !
The Boulder format has changed slightly, the new format is as follows:
1. Five problems are set
2. All competitors have 5 minutes on each problem
3. 5 Minute break between each different problem
4. Scores from all problems are added together to reach a total
5. If there is a tie, then a super-final will be set
quite liked the old format: emphasis on onsighting. How about bonus holds?
the emphasis is still on the onsight, as this will score you top points.
This system, allows more interaction (psyche) from all the climbers and is much more entertaining for the spectators. The bonus hold is somewhere on the problem. This helps with the scoring system.
To answer some of your concerns about why certain individuals are not climbing. They were all invited, but due to various reasons could not make the comp. See you all there!
I have noticed that Obs Fest is this weekend: http://obsarts.org.za/
I’m a bit worried about parking and the like with the MADNESS that the fest usually brings to Obs. Will CityROCK be making parking provisions? Any suggestions as to how to avoid the mob?
Below is a map of how best to avoid the madness!
Perfect, thanks for the map. I guess I’m so used to going to the gym via Station road that I forgot the other direction was possible. Anyway – I hope my question saved some people some pain. May be a good idea to cycle in if possible anyway – keeps the pressure off the parking.
Well done to the organisers for a well run event. Its a pity about the the plague of spinners – but I’m sure everyone had a great time regardless. Well done to the competitors – a very high standard indeed. And of course, I’m grateful for any event that brings some of my climbing friends from around the country to my home town…
So what did everyone think of the event?? I could only make it for 2 hours – I did not see any grips spinning while I was there. I got to watch the 1st mens lead and Paul Brouard certainly dominated that round with Jimbo getting the 2nd highest point. I agree the organisation was good and everyone seemed to be having a good time.
Was cool to see lots of climbers from all over attending
Watched the mens bouldering and was pretty insane, Paul was in a league of his own. Organisation was good and saw only one grip move on the first problem, not exactly spinning but did happen a few times. Good way to spend an afternoon indoors. Still burping garlic from the pita.
Man it was incredible to watch Paul flash 4 out of the 5 boulder problems. Absolutely no one was anywhere near comparable in ability! Awesome job!
The spinners were on the second mens lead route. The route was awesome but there were many many spinners – with at least 3 competitors being fouled by spinners. I know it affected Phlip, Benj, and James. The poor setter was up and down the wall trying to deal with the issue. The result was that the final route took about twice as long as it would have otherwise. It resulted in a fair amount of spectator fatigue. I know that it is an inherent problem in fresh routes indoors so am not actually complaining.
Thanks to the event organizers for a good event. Always great to bring the SA community at large together!
I have just two suggestions:
1) I would just like to ask that spotters be provided for the next event. Spotters are the “belayers” of bouldering.
2) Perhaps the problems should be set with the competitors in mind. I didn’t get to see the end of the women’s bouldering event, but I think only Faye made it up any of the bouldering problems. Here are SA’s strongest women, yet they are struggling on the first moves of these problems. Looking at their 8a ticklists (referencing Rachelle’s, Monikas, and mine), it seems that these short women might be better at crimps and heel hooks rather than big moves without any intermediates. Perhaps setting with this in mine mind create a more interesting comp.
Thanks again, though. It takes a lot of work to organize an event and it was a job well done….