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Video: The Cape Town

Yes, first ‘The‘ Rocklands and now ‘The‘ Cape Town…

Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson spent a couple months down in South Africa, developing a slew of new problems just outside of Cape Town.  Robinson had the cameras rolling on all his major 8b+ and 8C first ascents and has edited together this epic film of the footage.  There’s some seriously impressive climbing in the film, along with some insightful commentary from Robinson, so sit back, get comfortable and enjoy watching one of the world’s top boulderers crush his craft.

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24 Responses to Video: The Cape Town

  1. Ernesto Nov 8, 2011 at 11:41 am #

    Wow – well done on giving THE Cape Town a good showing.

    I have to ask – what does one call the CRAZY weird twisted arm move on Paranormal Activity? Insane…

    O__o

  2. Candice Nov 9, 2011 at 6:13 pm #

    Sick!

  3. Phlip Nov 9, 2011 at 10:13 pm #

    Ossem!!

  4. Rachel Strate Nov 14, 2011 at 8:07 am #

    Can someone tell me why it is ok for sponsored climbers to climb in a closed area (and make a video of it?!?!) while the rest of the community respects the MCSA’s request to stay out while we are fighting for the access?

  5. hermann Nov 14, 2011 at 9:14 am #

    I think those ascents by Marijus at Easter Island and Coppermine could have been when he FA’d those problems before the access issues started?

  6. Streaky Nov 14, 2011 at 10:26 am #

    Maybe he could clear that up for us?

  7. Rachel Strate Nov 14, 2011 at 10:28 am #

    Perhaps Hermann. Perhaps. But we all know Paul R. was logging climbs on his 8a during the time when it was closed. I notice that he has now edited his 8a card comments to remove his previous comments of jet lag, but has kept all the dates the same. So maybe they were just climbing there and not taking video… ;)

  8. Richard Nov 14, 2011 at 11:25 am #

    Maybe if it weren’t for these sponsored climbers, there would be no Redhill to begin with? Who do you think opened 90% of the problems there and made all the topos for you guys to go and enjoy the area?

    The guys had been climbing there for years, and issues only started once they released a guide for the masses.

    Rachel are you just jealous these guys are sponsored or something?

    Maybe you and Streaky can start a climbing police?

    Pretty sure Marijus has done more for the bouldering “community” than you two ever will. GET OVER IT…

  9. Ryan Nov 14, 2011 at 12:08 pm #

    And Britain for the British hey Richard. As someone new to cape town this year, i guess i’m part of the masses. Never realised boulders and the area they find themselves belonged to the first ascentionist. Steep learning curve for me.

  10. Rachel Strate Nov 14, 2011 at 12:23 pm #

    That’s funny, Richard. I just got done editing all the CBD topos (took me 3 months) and am now working my way through all of Topside for the new guide that is coming out (it will take me at least 6 months of every weekend). I personally wrote (with the help of Guy Howill and Charles Hopkins) the entire EMP (it took me 50+ hours) and have been working with the rangers and MCSA for 6 months. And right now creating an entire website for climbing travel information. Do I do this because I am sponsored? Nope.. because I am not. I do this because I believe in having climbing open to everyone and believe that everyone should have information in order to get out and enjoy the rock.

    Where I come from, even sponsored climbers have to play by the rules. But maybe things are different here.

  11. Adam Nov 14, 2011 at 12:24 pm #

    I would think that risking access to a place that you helped develop by not listening to current access rules is the selfish thing here. Oh I developed it so I can do what I want. Yeah good argument. Just because someone got there first doesn’t mean that without them the place would not exist. But by not listening to the rules maybe it soon won’t.

  12. Streaky Nov 14, 2011 at 12:39 pm #

    Hi Richard, this is not about jealousy or such like, but rather that as a sponsored climber you represent the climbing community and are indirectly a role model (whether you like it or not) because you wouldn’t be sponsored if people didn’t know or even aspire to climb like you (i.e. just so you understand my comment, someone sees sponsored hero climb in X brand of shoes and therefore thinks that he/she can perform like said hero if only he/she climbed in the same shoes etc etc…). Given this, it is your responsibility and duty as a sponsored climber to at least try to live up to this. In this case, if the sponsored climber blatantly ignores the plea to not climb at a closed area as it jeopardises future access in this very sensitive time period, what is the message it sends to all those young up and coming climbers???

    Additionally If you really feel the urge/need to go and climb at an area that it closed, don’t go and advertise it or make a movie about it either.

    PS – I am also sponsored… I have been climbing at all these areas for years, and most importantly want to be able to continue doing so in the future of a long long time.

  13. Streaky Nov 14, 2011 at 1:03 pm #

    Oh Richard, and by the way Emile found Redhill and to my knowledge he isn’t sponsored…

  14. Richard Nov 14, 2011 at 1:04 pm #

    I never said anything about anyone owning an area. I’m saying maybe we should show a bit of respect for someone who has done so much for Cape Town bouldering, essentially putting it on the global map… And I heard Marijus helped out on the EMP too? And he told me he met with the Rangers as well? So I doubt he’s being reckless with his action? Marijus, care to comment?

    If you want to accuse or discredit someone, is a public forum that THE RANGERS APPARENTLY READ the best place for it?

    PS – 3 months for the CBD topo? aren’t there like 50 problems there? Pity you can’t get sponsored for topo making hey? :P

    PPS – Streaky, well done on being sponsored, you’re my hero and I want your shoes.

  15. gaz Nov 14, 2011 at 1:11 pm #

    Who found what boulder area is pretty trivial, considering how many times boulders get rediscovered independently. trawl through the old forum posts and see how many “new” boulders have all been climbed in the passed..dudes have been climbing around the peninsula for decades… boulders are found by people with the gumption to go exploring, and there are, and have been, quite a few of those around over the years. marijus has def contributed greatly to this, but that doesnt excuse potentially screwing up access for everyone else. that is just plain selfish. there is no entitlement here. and THAT is what the issue is. I would be bleak with anyone who ended up costing us access there, sponsored or not.. Marijus’s actions were reckless, especially since its known that SANPARKs vists the site, and considering he is ON the redhill EMP team.

    On a side note, i do think its good that individuals get called out for actions that are seen as being detrimental to the climbing community, by said community. all the people concerned here are regular boulderers in and around cape town.

  16. gaz Nov 14, 2011 at 1:22 pm #

    “the loudest one in the room, is the weakest one in the room” – Frank Lucas.
    keep it under the radar

  17. Justin Nov 14, 2011 at 1:23 pm #

    Regardless: Any person who climbs at an area that has been demarcated as ‘closed to climbing‘ risks future access for all other climbers and puts climbers into a poor light in the view of land owner.

  18. dom Nov 14, 2011 at 1:29 pm #

    Richard, before you continue to spout off about things you appear to know very little about, accept the fact that Marijus and Paul messed up by going to Redhill and need to be called out on it. We’re all guilty of doing stupid things like this, but as a sponsored climber you have additional responsibilities and need to be aware of that.

    Marijus has done plenty for bouldering in Cape Town, but so have many others. You, however, are not one of them. Just because they keep a lower profile doesn’t mean their efforts are any less appreciated.

  19. marijus Nov 14, 2011 at 1:33 pm #

    wow guys, relax!

    emile “found” redhill and we developed it together from around 2002. in 2009 i developed the coppermine sector and put the topos online. from 2010 we started having issues with the rangers.

    i haven’t been climbing at redhill at all this year as i luckily managed to complete all my projects there before the area closed. i have been respectful of the mcsa ban of the area, but having spoken to the rangers, i do not respect their reasons for banning climbing there. my sentiment is that i will avoid the area until their final answer is given, after that, i will climb there regardless of their decision. they can come find me and fine me if they want. i know i am not the only one with this opinion and i know even more people that have ignored the ban completely. the land belongs to us all, and if people can build hiking trails, tar road and dig dams just a few hundred meters away, then i can climb my little boulders too.

    that said, we don’t all have the luxury of waiting around for months for the whims of rangers on a power trip to decide whether bouldering is going to be permitted or not, so we spent one stealth session there in july (without carrying in pads) to showcase some of the best rock on the peninsula. you will note the movie does not label any areas so if sheriff streaky and sheriff rachel didn’t make such a hoohaa about all of this nobody would have noticed. we hoped that the emp would have been approved by the time the movie came out, but this was not the case.

  20. Mic Nov 14, 2011 at 1:52 pm #

    hear hear Marijus. So tired of these self righteous nanny folks who have the need to speak on everyone’s behalf. I agree, let them come and find me, and fine me. Bouldering is harmless compared to so many other things. Do these same folks chase down road speedsters and reprimand them too? Your film shows the passion, love and commitment to your craft mate, and your love of nature and respect for these rocks too. Life is for living and if these rangers can’t see this and respect that climbers are lovers of nature, mountains and rocks, then there’s no point in not going there.

    There are so many far greater issues we face in life. Huge blatant corruption, thefts, crimes and how about the TMNP’s gormless ignorance when it comes to the hijackings we face in the hills. So instead of dealing with those issues, they have to pick softer targets to get their fix. First repair the mess left behind with the cableway, start properly policing these hills, and do decent accurate assessments of these area bans before anyone will respect this issue.

  21. Streaky Nov 14, 2011 at 2:03 pm #

    Hi Marijus

    I think we would have got to the bottom of this all a lot sooner if you had been honest and open about this right from the start when this was first raised – we could have put this to bed long ago and all would be forgiven and forgotten!

    I agree with many of the points you raised above and can understand why you took Paul there because it is a really fantastic area – i seriously miss climbing there myself and have loads of great problems that you put up that I would like to do.

  22. Simon Nov 14, 2011 at 2:17 pm #

    Hey Richard,

    Rachel is putting in a lot of effort to regain access to Redhill, Coppermine and Easter Island. She and the EMP team as well as the MCSA is doing it for the community and for the sport. So I think she is totally in the right to ask why all of her input is jeopardized by some climbers who don’t stick to the agreement with SanPArks.

    So I think there should be a bit more respect of her work as the whole climbing community will profit from it.
    Rachel, awesome work, keep going!

  23. julia Nov 14, 2011 at 2:37 pm #

    Rachel,

    You’re not the only person who believes that climbing should be open to everyone and that everyone should have information in order to get out and enjoy the rock. How did you initially come to know about the bouldering areas in Cape Town in the first place?

    Do you really think that calling people out and making a big fuss about it is going to help the situation and/or change the person’s opinions about it?

    Seeing as though we are discussing this on a public forum that the Rangers follow, Marijus and Paul are not the only people who have been to Redhill since it was most recently announced as “closed to climbing”. But they are boulderers who actually respect the environment that they climb in and try to preserve the sanctity of these areas. I don’t believe that the Rangers would close Redhill without having properly determined the impact of climbing on the area.

    The real culprits of jeopardising access are the people who leave cigarette butts, tape, plastic, and toilet paper, and don’t clean the boulders when they are done.

    Yes, they went to Redhill when they shouldn’t have, but Paul was only here for a short time and unlike us who live here and have all been to Redhill and can afford to wait, we wanted to be able to show him the best of Cape Town without it being a big deal.

    I’m not saying that what they did was right, but I am saying that what’s done is done. They have been called out, so move on. Surely your not letting go of this issue is harmful to all the fighting you’ve been doing?

  24. Justin Nov 14, 2011 at 2:59 pm #

    Comments on this subject are now closed:

    Climbing at Redhill is banned.

    Any climbing at Redhill before the EMP is signed off by CNC will endanger future access to the area.