The UIAA recently sent out a warning regarding bolt failures:
We would like you to be aware of the following statement put forward by the UIAA Safety commission:
“The Safety Commission, with Alan Jarvis as our full member, is doing splendid work in the testing of climbing equipment and the UIAA stamp on such items is the industry standard. Royalties charged are a major source of income for the UIAA. A warning was given of surprise internal corrosion that had been found on hangers and bolts used in a warm marine environment which climbers should become aware of.
There have been bolts exposed to humid, sea air and which carry h the UIAA stamp on them, which have corroded so badly that they have simply fallen off under their own weight.”
– Please don’t just trust any bolt you see and whenever possible never put your life onto a single bolt. Your safety is your responsibly
And if you are considering placing bolts, please bear in mind the MCSA’s bolting policy, which can be found at mcsa.org.za.
See also:
I thought they
A: had done this ages ago
B: tested hangers, not bolts.
C: SABS etc would manage those sorts of standards.
As I see it they are covering themselves here- we have never had a hanger failure, only bolt failures due to bad placements or age