Adam Ondra has claimed the coveted second ascent of Gioia, confirming the speculated grade of V16/8c+.
Last February Ondra journeyed to Verazze, Italy, where Gioia is located, but was only able to piece together the stand-start, which clocks in at V12/13.
Ondra wrote on his 8a.nu scorecard, “[the] sit is another level. 8C+ for sure.”
Ondra returned two weeks ago to work the sit-start of Gioia and 27crags reports that he has now succeeded in climbing one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
The Italian strongman Christian Core established Gioia in 2008 and graded the line 8C or V15. Subsequent attempts by climbers such as Ondra began the speculation that Gioia, which translates to “joy,” might in fact be harder.
Christian Core established the boulder problem in 2008 after spending four months working out the moves. Gioia (“Joy” in English) is 14 moves long with terrible feet, with a stand start that goes at around V12/13.
Christian Core originally graded the problem V15, but Ondra believes it’s a solid grade harder. Other top climbers like Daniel Woods, Chris Webb Parsons, and Dai Koyamada, have tried the line to no avail.
In November, Ondra reported that he had climbed his first V16, Terranova, at a crag in the Czech Republic.