Conrad Anker, 49, has climbed Everest from the South without supplemental oxygen. This is great news for Anker—earlier in the week he abandoned an 02-less attempt from the South side, and had previously given up on a repeat of the West Ridge when conditions were too dangerous. Anker is one of America’s top alpinists and all-around climbers, and worldwide he is a force to contend with.
In 1999 he discovered the body of Mallory on Everest and recently he made the first ascent of the Sharksfin on Meru (see Ascent 2012). In between (and before) he climbed just about everything that dares stick itself above the Earth’s surface, including Everest twice already
Vinson Massif, Cholatse, hard aid on El Cap and in Zion, Torre Egger, Middle Triple Peak and a list so long you’d have to carve off serious time to read all of it.
Kudos to Conrad for tightening the screws and getting it done today. Everest has now been climbed nearly 6,000 times but fewer than 150 have unplugged and cranked it off like Messner, without supplemental oxygen.
Source: Rock & Ice