The Black Diamond Rock Rally was a great success with about 30 climbers having a great time at Kleinmond Crag. The weather was perfect and if you weren’t there you certainly missed out!
The French Maids were by far the best dressed! Best Winger of the day went to Alan Hills when the the crux bolt on ‘Percolator’ failed resulting in his belayer getting a burn to the hand (well done for holding on!!) and Alan landing only a few feet above the ground!
Otherwise it was a lekker day at the crag and great to see so many new faces
- Young and old made it up to the climbing
- Rumour was that the French Maids were going ‘clean up’ in the overall Womens section ;)
- Lunch, with the ‘Judement Day’ rapid far below the climbing area.
- River folk!!
- Relaxing after a long walk down from the crag!
- 1x broken crux bolt from Percolator
- 1x broken crux bolt from Percolator –
- Kayakers at the bottom of the Judgement Day Rapid
- Kayakers at the bottom of the Judgement Day Rapid
- Kayaking Judgement Day Rapid
Format: Black Diamond Rock Rally
Date: Saturday 18th August 2012
Time: 09h00am – 16h00pm
Start: Festival Hub, Palmiet Caravan Park
Finish: Festival Hub
Cost: R50
Entries: Download the entry form here
Official Webpage: adventurefestival.co.za
The Gravity Festival started 10 years ago as a gathering of white water enthusiasts and has gradually grown into a multi-discipline festival of adventure sports……….So this is your opportunity – to gather with a bunch of other adventurers to play and party together for the weekend in one of South Africa’s little adventure gems.
What:
A gathering of all levels and ages of climbers to enjoy the best that Kleinmond has to offer – Sport, Trad or Bouldering – followed by a party of note on the banks of the Palmiet estuary. There are over 40 routes and 20 boulder problems to be climbed in 7 hours, making this Rally great practice for first time rally entrance, and ideal training for Boven Rally little over a month later. Scoring will be handicapped by ability, but more details to follow.
Equipment:
All participants are expected to be self sufficient, both regarding gear and refreshments. The use of a helmet is highly recommended
Prizes:
There are 2 categories: grades under 21 or 6c+, and open. Prizes will be given to the winning team in each category, as well as spot prizes.
Spot prizes:
There will be spot prizes given out at the end of the event for the best dressed couple; the most impressive send of the day; the most encouraging spirit of the day – and anything else that the organizers deem fit ! Spot prizes supplied by Ram Mountaineering.
Rules :
1. Climbers are expected to safely climb as many routes, as hard they can manage.
2. Only teams of 2 compete in this event. ONLY they may belay each other.
3. The team members do not need to complete the same amount of routes.
4. Each route may be climbed only once on sport and once on trad per climber.
5. Only routes lead from the bottom to the top without falling or resting on the rope/gear will count towards the number of completed routes.
6. No toproping will be allowed to count towards points in the competition.
7. Climbers have 7 hours, for every minute that a team arrives after the cut-off time, 10 points will be deducted from each climbers’ individual scores.
8. Climbers caught littering at crags, including cigarette butts, will be penalized heavily.
9. This competition is based on an honesty system. The chief reserves the right to disqualify teams guilty of “rule bending” in any way. He will also have the rights to alter handicaps or scores when and if he suspects foul play, or for other purposes. His decision will be final.
10. Every climber must tie in directly into their harness with a figure of 8, a backed-up bowline or other recognized safe knot every time they start climbing.
11. For your own safety: Every bolt on a route must be clipped. For trad ascents, no more than a 1.5m (body length) run out will be allowed. Standard procedures using both top anchors must be followed for lowering off every route. Trad ascents must use top anchors to lower off as well. This is done at your own risk.
12. It is strongly recommended that climbers use helmets as climbing is a potentially dangerous sport involving significant risk. The belayer, at least, should wear a helmet for protection against falling rocks.
13. Every climber MUST sign an indemnity form before the race starts. Climbing activities are done at your own risk.
Scoring: Score card will be given out at registration
* The team members will do their own scoring based on an honesty system.
* 1 bonus points will also be awarded for routes flashed or on-sighted on the day. This will benefit climbers that do not climb at this venue frequently.
* 3 bonus points will be awarded for traditional ascents using natural protection placed on lead. This applies only to climbers placing the protection, not a second climber clipping the trad gear which will equal a sport ascent.
* Not all routes qualify for trad routes as protection is not always available. Use your safe judgment.
See you there and don’t forget about the after party!







































Hi Folks
I was away when we were putting this page together, and to be honest i don’t like the system above, and would rather implement a much simpler- and i think fairer system: instead of a handicap system ii want to divide the competitors by grade, say an under 22 comp and an open comp. under 222′s can’t claim any send over that grade, and the opens can climb anything, however the scoring will heavily favour routes above 22.
Hi
I was wondering if there is going to be bouldering as well as sport in the competition?
Hi Sheldon! there will be Sport, bouldering and trad in the rally. I have created a Facebook page that has all the details, including what the scoring is per grade, so if you want you can plan your rally right now! with permission- i would like to take the bouldering info freely available on Culoose as the guide, and talking to Marijus it sounds like that is all the bouldering there.
Sup guys. The “grades under 21″…Do 21 grades fall into the upper or lower category?
Presumably we can enter the lower tier and then if we do want to try a 21, we just don’t score on it?
Cuan, I have changed it slightly in that it is now 22 and under- ie under 23 routes. 22′s are graded to encourage both groups to do them.
Pic’s of the Rock Rally have been posted at the top of this article.
Thanks for organising the rally, Warren! We had a great time!