Out Of Reality – new line on Great Trango Tower

The line of Kopold and Sabovcik's attempt.

Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik have attempted a new line on Great Trango Tower (6286m).  Over five days in August the pair climbed 1500m of what they are calling “Out of Reality” through ice, off-widths and without placing any bolts.

Their trip started with a quick jaunt up 400m of unclimbed rock on the base of Great Trango Tower while their third partner Martin Krasnansky tried to acclimatize in bascamp.  A few days later Kopold and Sabovcik decided to explore a new route up the northwest face of the Tower.

Though they left the tent and portaledge behind they still climbed in a heavier style than Kopold had on his 2005 ascent of the mountain vis his route “Assalam Alaikum (5.11+ A2, 90 pitches).” Kopold wrote to mountain.ru, “I’m an old man now [early thirties] and need more comfort.  So we took sleeping bags, pads and little bit more food :-) All in one haulbag and one small backpack.”

Read the full report on Alpinist.com

2 Responses to Out Of Reality – new line on Great Trango Tower

  1. Hector September 13, 2012 at 3:55 pm #

    They describe their 2005 ascent as “disaster style”. What a great phrase.
    “and then we continued to a section with many offwidths. We both hate offwidths, but when it´s raining, it starts to be fun.” Classic.

  2. Alard September 15, 2012 at 8:55 pm #

    It was gripping watching them on the wall,. (from base camp). unluckily bad weather came in and we did not see them for a day, and then it cleared a bit and we watched them abseil. Scale at Trango is at a different level. You look up at great trango ……. and it it almost double El cap…… crazy. It was a pity that they could not finish the route. cool dudes!!!

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