Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik have attempted a new line on Great Trango Tower (6286m). Over five days in August the pair climbed 1500m of what they are calling “Out of Reality” through ice, off-widths and without placing any bolts.
Their trip started with a quick jaunt up 400m of unclimbed rock on the base of Great Trango Tower while their third partner Martin Krasnansky tried to acclimatize in bascamp. A few days later Kopold and Sabovcik decided to explore a new route up the northwest face of the Tower.
Though they left the tent and portaledge behind they still climbed in a heavier style than Kopold had on his 2005 ascent of the mountain vis his route “Assalam Alaikum (5.11+ A2, 90 pitches).” Kopold wrote to mountain.ru, “I’m an old man now [early thirties] and need more comfort. So we took sleeping bags, pads and little bit more food
All in one haulbag and one small backpack.”
Read the full report on Alpinist.com



They describe their 2005 ascent as “disaster style”. What a great phrase.
“and then we continued to a section with many offwidths. We both hate offwidths, but when it´s raining, it starts to be fun.” Classic.
It was gripping watching them on the wall,. (from base camp). unluckily bad weather came in and we did not see them for a day, and then it cleared a bit and we watched them abseil. Scale at Trango is at a different level. You look up at great trango ……. and it it almost double El cap…… crazy. It was a pity that they could not finish the route. cool dudes!!!