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Adam Ondra Does FA of World’s Hardest Route

At Hanshelleren cave of Flatanger, Norway, Adam Ondra has been working on a 55m long project, rumored to be 38/9b+.  A Facebook update by the videographer Petr Pavlicek reported that Ondra was close to sending the full “Change” project—two pitches (55 meters total) which have gone free, but not yet as one continuous pitch. He wrote:

“Two days ago, after climbing the first 9a+ [5.15a] pitch again (now starting to think again about 9b [5.15b] just for the single first pitch, it is really very very hard, much more than all 9a+s I have seen him done), Adam got on the link also through the crux of the 2nd pitch, but then really unexpectedly fell from the end of the hard section of the second pitch. If the crimps there were not totally wet, it could be done…

On the 4th of October Adam sent what is now being called the hardest route in the world and graded at 38/9b+ !
The route can be divided into two pitches – 9a+/b (20m), nohand-rest and 9a (25m).

Click here to read an account of the route on 8a.nu

The video below is of Adam working the bottom half of the route:

4 Responses to Adam Ondra Does FA of World’s Hardest Route

  1. Stijn Laenen Oct 8, 2012 at 1:04 pm #

    Not that it matters much to us mere mortals, but 9b+ = 39 as 38 already corresponds to 9b. i.e. This new route is 4 full grades harder than SA’s hardest route (Mazawattee), not just 3 :-P

  2. Mario Oct 8, 2012 at 1:16 pm #

    Ondra is a BEAST!

  3. Micky Oct 9, 2012 at 8:01 pm #

    wonder how big the no hand rest is?

  4. Crazy Person Oct 12, 2012 at 1:27 pm #

    Anyone know if that route is harder than Sharma’s La Dura Dura (which I believe is still unclimbed)?

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