Gorilla attacks Matt Wilder for overuse of chalk.
Brush Off Tick Marks: Excess chalk leads to access issues – this goes for routes as well as boulder problems.
Justin i fully agree, 1 question, ur quite the pro and know about projects, when u say “finish the route” do you imply after uv projected it for 5 years or after a good hard day of climbing and struggeling to get the draws down?
JUST A QUESTION, NOT LOOKING FOR AN ARGUMENT!
I’ll answer this in a round about way
Essentially, tick marks are for HARD boulder problems and routes where a grip is out of view / hidden. Many many (most) people who have climbed 30 / 8A have managed to do it without tick marks – instead choosing to use…. wait for it…. their memory!
By leaving your tick marks in place you take the challenge away from someone who might be going for an onsight or flash.
Tick marks have also been getting bigger and there are of more of them. Some climbers draw two lines instead of just one i.e. put your hand between the two lines for the sweet spot.
We’ve also been seeing a LOT of unnecessary tick marks on obvious holds (like big jugs that stand out).
Fortunately (in Montagu) the only people I have heard complaining about tick marks are climbers.
If your memory fails you and you feel the need to make a mark on the rock:
- Try to make it discreet – a single small thin line will do (you’re not trying to land a plane)
- Carry a brush to remove the line later on (a boar bristle brush is best as nylon brushes polish the rock)
Jason Temple-Forbes feels the same way I do about excessive tick marking.
You didnt answer my question at all….
Ebert, you decide what your ethics are, but don’t enforce it on everybody else. Be considerate towards the person who finds pleasure in puzzling out the moves and holds for themselves.
What Justin is probably trying to say is that it’s better to clean off the tick marks after your session, ie day/weekend/week spent in one stretch. If one’s memory is so bad, why not take a photo of the route with the ticks on before you brush it clean and go study it at home?
You can work the route, so you know where the holds are and, if they are hidden or impossible to see, and it will really mean the difference between the oh-so-important send or not, make it small, and clean it off.
Even better: learn to read the ROCK, so you won’t need tick marks. The beauty of real rock is that it’s not like a gym where the holds are brightly coloured and easy to see. (Do know that I am biased against climbing indoors, I don’t have anything against indoor climbers)
Clean your tick marks off when you done climbing that route/boulder for the day. and dont tick every f’ing hold and foot hold either. Oh and dont draw 30cm stripes, maybe just a small spot. Simple just think about it.
not directed at anyone in particular, unless you are a doos who tick marks like a po#s
lol, now thats an answer, aka, CLEAN THE ROUTE AFTER UR SESSION
One of the bestest anit-tickmark pics i’ve ever seen! rofl! A very photogenic f u ! bwahahahaaa!
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