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The Chosfather

The Chosfather by Andrew Pedley

There are a couple of new lines at SA’s best sport climbing secret… TheChosspile!  The name does it no favours but actually this is a damn good crag, less than an hour from Joburg and once cleaned the rock is bomber.  It is the core of the Gauteng climbing scene, always providing something new to try.  At last count there are over 50 routes, about half down at the ‘easier’ Harry Potters sector and half at ‘harder’ Lord of the Rings sector and the Wall of Aglorond.  And it’s still ticking over; recent additions are The Chosfather (28) and Violent Streak (32).

I named the Chosfather in celebration of Gauteng’s oldest proper strong-man, Colin Crabtree, who has been ‘chossing-it’ since before there was even a damn at Harties.  Not that Colin has sent the route, it has been a closed project of mine for a while, though he and a few others have done plenty of ‘dry-humping’, the art of harmlessly playing on a route before it has been opened.  Anyway, as of today it’s open at grade 28 with the double knee-bar rest.  It’s the steepest route at the crag, lots of fun on jugs with a crux in the middle and a pump up top.

The Chosfather (Colin Crabtree) at The Chosspile.

The Chosfather, Colin Crabtree, ‘dry-humping’ the route a few weeks ago.  The F-ing STILL F-ing unopened Shadow (F-ing) fax project (hard 33) is on the left.  Photo by Dave Johns.

 

Violent Streak (32) is the only climb at the ‘Man Cave’ a previously ignored wave of rock at the otherwise rambling Harry Potter sector.  The climb takes a steep limestone-like streak up the centre of the wall via a sequence of slappy side-pulling then an easier finish through some almost horizontal terrain.  What a class line!  Despite a few tries by the local ‘strong men’, it has not yet been repeated.  There is potential for a few really hard lines in the Cave for anyone with 33 or more in his fingers (for the love of rock, step up ‘next generation’ please!!).

Chosspile, Violent Streak

Me looking like a major dork at the Man-Cave. Violent Streak takes the obvious water streak. Photo by Brian Weaver

Brian Weaver working the crux on the Violent Streak project.

Brian Weaver working the crux on the Violent Streak project. Photo Andrew Pedley – Click to Enlarge

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6 Responses to The Chosfather

  1. Brian Weaver Dec 6, 2012 at 10:18 am #

    Double kneebar on Chossfather? I did not know about that. The single kneebar was awesome but double is LEGEND-wait-for-it—DARY!

  2. Colin Crabtree Dec 6, 2012 at 4:21 pm #

    LOL – nice review Andy and yes Brian i agree. What “Double knee bar”….. can you explain this Andy or are you sand bagging again ? :)

    I remember the early days when we used to look out over the great ravine towards the South and watch herds of 1000’s of Hartebeest stroll past through the gorge and on northward to the Serengeti. We watched the herds dwindle over the years as raiding Boers and English military types in red jackets and pith helmets turned them methodically into Biltong. When the Boers in their wisdom built a big wall across the ravine to stop the raiding Red Necks coming in, little did they know what affect it would have on the landscape. All that remained was to name the place in memory of the beasts that once roamed free and wide.

    The Bushmen still occupying the Choss cave at the time could not understand the point of exiting the cave via the roof instead of just walking around.

    Most people are unaware that the best bouldering cave in the world now lies silent 70m below the stench filled waters of the dam.

  3. andrew Dec 7, 2012 at 6:47 am #

    Thanks for that bit of history Colin, you tell it with such feeling. In all seriousness though, we found 3 human teeth below Gollum on the weekend, 2 molars and an incisor, they are still there. Hard to explain when you think about it..maybe some weird muti thing or bushman relics, very sinister. Perhaps you can shed some light on this Colin?

  4. Dave Dec 7, 2012 at 7:12 am #

    I’m pretty sure those are Colin’s teeth. It’s all part of his drive to lose weight and climb harder grades.

    BTW, this article made no mention of a stellar new line opened this last weekend at the newly discovered Mordor Section (the uppermost crag). Pic coming soon…

  5. Chris F Dec 14, 2012 at 5:49 pm #

    Nice that Colin is still bearing down after his former peers like me are fading away. I recon those teeth must be his, and have fallen out between redpoint attempts.

  6. Colin Crabtree Dec 18, 2012 at 5:13 pm #

    Those Teeth !!!!

    I did loose a tooth on a red-point attempt on Andural a month or so ago. :)

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