Many moons ago I found a new line on TM. It’s proper hard. The Moon Flakes project began. I figured that 2 months in Boven should provide the necessary improvements in finger strength needed to give it an honest go. Although, in this case ‘honest’ would mean with a small, yet possible chance of success.
Much like trying to score the hottest girl at the club: you need to pull out all the tricks of the trade (without resorting to rohypnol). Well, at the time when I had planned to be at peak strength, the project had changed. Now the goal was to hobble 15m on crutches without wanting to pass out from the pain…
Phases of the moon came and went. The body started to heal. The mind dreamt faster. Hobbling became walking. The ideas of new lines grew, I explored parts of the mountain I had never seen before, albeit rather slowly and awkwardly at first. My note book started to fill up. My gait become more normal. More physio. Abseiling and brushing. Choss and gold. Lichen in the eyes. Some swearing. More patience. Waxing and Waning. More stretching, less stumbling. Scrambling. Leading. Seed planted, nervous. Go!
“Off belay!”, – and in that instant a committing (temporary grade 25) trad line was born and a question that had been rattling around my wee head had been answered. Of course all good stories require a twist… and this one does not include roofies.
Warren followed the pitch, fell off at the crux, found better beta and voila!: the dreaded downgrade.
So 7 months on the couch may have dulled my powers of sequence finding ever so slightly, but on the sharp end at least I was getting back on track. And damn it felt good. The psyche was fuelled, and a few days later the wild (and definitely harder) Orion roof pitch was solved elsewhere above the Mother City. Hopefully it will go soon, and then the psyche will be over flowing like Dolly Parton in an extra small tank top. And maybe, just maybe, it won’t be too many lunar cycles more before chalk dust appears on Moon Flakes again.