Matt Bush opened Dynamighty at grade 28 this past week. The new line is the direct extension to Dynamite.
Dynamighty 28, Africa Ledge:
Pitch 1 – As for Dynamite, 19
Pitch 2 – As for Dynamite, 26
Pitch 3- Dynamighty 28
Long pulls on good holds. Climbing through the most impressive overlaps on the ledge. The line tests the mental factor more than anything else. Run outs are long due to extensions on slings to avoid rope drag. If you use short slings it is impossible to top out due to rope drag.
Specific Route Description:
Stance in the obvious rail just above dynamite, the rail takes a few small cams and medium nuts in opposition.
Dynamighty climbs on the left side of the stance but straight up from the stance on two small but positive crimps and a right hand gaston. Pull through to a deep rail and place a cam with a long runner to avoid drag, at least 1m 20cm. At this stage don’t be afraid to see the biner you’ve clipped near your belayer, it is essential for climbing the top section without be pulled off by rope drag.
From the good rail make a longish pull to another deep flake with good holds, place a cam with another long runner on the left side of the flake where it is more solid, this hold feels like it could blow. Now set up for the long pull through the roof to a sloper with an edge on it. Gain the edge and another good edge and pull through the lip, heelhooking and having a blast.
Step up using a good left hand edge and a right hand flake side pull and pull through to a jug and another big rail. This is the scary section, a fall here would not be ideal! Gain the rail and plug a couple cams in and sink a wire in the roof. Take a chill.
From the rail reach around the corner with your left hand into a fingerlock jug at the lip, cross right hand over to another fingerlock, reach up to an undercling with left hand, swop feet in the rail, bring the left foot up and pull the lip. Once you pull the lip, its easy climbing to the next rail. Good pro too.
At the last overlap, reach up with LH around the roof and gain a positive hold, set feet and reach though to a deep dish with right, one more longish pull to a side pull on the left and then step up and top out in style.
How you spotted the line, how long it took to send?
I took a look at the line a few years ago on the Petzl Rock and Road Trip. It captured my imagination since that day.
It took 2 half days to suss the line out and then a 3rd to open it.
Did you take any big falls opening the line?
The first attempt with Garreth Bird was collosal as I took a 10m bail. There was mist surrounding us and I was climbing up and got myself onto the head wall and then realised that my sling was not extended sufficiently on the lower overlaps, the rope jammed up nicely… I looked down and shouted to Garreth ‘throw alot of slack dood’. I needed to clear the bottom overlap instead of getting slammed into the lip. He threw out a few meters, I was lead out already but knew I needed ample slack to clear the overlap on the fall. I jumped off and came wizzing down near Garreth. Shew!!!
How did you go about opeing the line?
I approached top down to suss the line out. Gaining knowledge of the route assisted me to sending it ground up. The big lead outs have drastic consequences that are worth considering. I found dialing the moves top down helped me go into the bottom up lead with greater composure.
Top down is definately the way to push the movement levels. Bottom up is always more mentally demanding and I think that a combination of these methods will lead to unbelievable routes being opened in the near future.
What are your thoughts on the New Era?
I am excited to be part of the universal progressive climbing movement. Bouldering, sport, trad, soloing, top roping, aid climbing, and mixed climbing are all ways to explore the natural world. The natural world belongs to everyone and the ways of exploration are endless.
Climbing means many things to many people. For me its about freedom, and less about following rules and walking in lock step with the ethic. I’m going boldly where I haven’t gone before and the journey is intensely personal. Challenging myself and growing personally, climbing big mountains and developing virtues, for me, there’s no better way of life.
The rock is the ultimate star. I guess its part of the human condition to glorify achievements but I want to point it all back to nature. I feel it’s a gift to have opened Dynamighty but my gratitude for this belongs to the mountain.
I’m really amped to push myself for the climbing itself. The era is always new, the potential always infinite.