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New route: Matt Bush opens Dynamighty (28) on Africa Ledge

Matt Bush Table Mountain

Matt Bush on Dynamighty (28) on Table Mountain

Matt Bush opened Dynamighty at grade 28 this past week.  The new line is the direct extension to Dynamite.

Dynamighty 28, Africa Ledge:

Pitch 1 – As for Dynamite, 19
Pitch 2 – As for Dynamite, 26
Pitch 3- Dynamighty 28

General Description:

Long pulls on good holds. Climbing through the most impressive overlaps on the ledge. The line tests the mental factor more than anything else. Run outs are long due to extensions on slings to avoid rope drag. If you use short slings it is impossible to top out due to rope drag.

Specific Route Description:

Stance in the obvious rail just above dynamite, the rail takes a few small cams and medium nuts in opposition.

Dynamighty climbs on the left side of the stance but straight up from the stance on two small but positive crimps and a right hand gaston.  Pull through to a deep rail and place a cam with a long runner to avoid drag, at least 1m 20cm.  At this stage don’t be afraid to see the biner you’ve clipped near your belayer, it is essential for climbing the top section without be pulled off by rope drag.

From the good rail make a longish pull to another deep flake with good holds, place a cam with another long runner on the left side of the flake where it is more solid, this hold feels like it could blow.  Now set up for the long pull through the roof to a sloper with an edge on it.  Gain the edge and another good edge and pull through the lip, heelhooking and having a blast.

Step up using a good left hand edge and a right hand flake side pull and pull through to a jug and another big rail.  This is the scary section, a fall here would not be ideal!  Gain the rail and plug a couple cams in and sink a wire in the roof.  Take a chill.

From the rail reach around the corner with your left hand into a fingerlock jug at the lip, cross right hand over to another fingerlock, reach up to an undercling with left hand, swop feet in the rail, bring the left foot up and pull the lip. Once you pull the lip, its easy climbing to the next rail. Good pro too.

Matt Bush on Dynamighty (38) on Table Mountain

Matt Bush on Dynamighty (38) on Table Mountain.

At the last overlap, reach up with LH around the roof and gain a positive hold, set feet and reach though to a deep dish with right, one more longish pull to a side pull on the left and then step up and top out in style.

How you spotted the line, how long it took to send?

I took a look at the line a few years ago on the Petzl Rock and Road Trip.  It captured my imagination since that day.

It took 2 half days to suss the line out and then a 3rd to open it.

Did you take any big falls opening the line?

The first attempt with Garreth Bird was collosal as I took a 10m bail. There was mist surrounding us and I was climbing up and got myself onto the head wall and then realised that my sling was not extended sufficiently on the lower overlaps, the rope jammed up nicely… I looked down and shouted to Garreth ‘throw alot of slack dood’.  I needed to clear the bottom overlap instead of getting slammed into the lip.  He threw out a few meters, I was lead out already but knew I needed ample slack to clear the overlap on the fall.  I jumped off and came wizzing down near Garreth. Shew!!!

How did you go about opeing the line?

I approached top down to suss the line out. Gaining knowledge of the route assisted me to sending it ground up. The big lead outs have drastic consequences that are worth considering. I found dialing the moves top down helped me go into the bottom up lead with greater composure.

Top down is definately the way to push the movement levels. Bottom up is always more mentally demanding and I think that a combination of these methods will lead to unbelievable routes being opened in the near future.

What are your thoughts on the New Era?

I am excited to be part of the universal progressive climbing movement.  Bouldering, sport, trad, soloing, top roping, aid climbing, and mixed climbing are all ways to explore the natural world. The natural world belongs to everyone and the ways of exploration are endless.

Climbing means many things to many people. For me its about freedom, and less about following rules and walking in lock step with the ethic. I’m going boldly where I haven’t gone before and the journey is intensely personal. Challenging myself and growing personally, climbing big mountains and developing virtues, for me, there’s no better way of life.

The rock is the ultimate star. I guess its part of the human condition to glorify achievements but I want to point it all back to nature. I feel it’s a gift to have opened Dynamighty but my gratitude for this belongs to the mountain.

I’m really amped to push myself for the climbing itself.  The era is always new, the potential always infinite.

Related articles:

Matt Bush Table Mountain

Dynamighty line on Table Mountain

 

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10 Responses to New route: Matt Bush opens Dynamighty (28) on Africa Ledge

  1. Paul Mar 12, 2013 at 12:35 pm #

    Saaaalid ! Very ballsy, well done Matt !

  2. mememe Mar 12, 2013 at 1:07 pm #

    Matt Bush opened Dynamighty at grade 28 this past week.

    or

    Matt Bush on Dynamighty (38) on Table Mountain.

  3. andrew p Mar 12, 2013 at 1:08 pm #

    Love it! Your best yet Matt. Imagine trying to onsight that shi&t!..

  4. Justin Lawson Mar 12, 2013 at 1:55 pm #

    Tx for spotting my typo! 28 is the grade given by Matt (and not 38).

  5. Clinton Mar 13, 2013 at 7:03 am #

    Awesome Matt well done. I always wanted to go look at that extension “you snooze you loos”.

  6. Hilton Mar 13, 2013 at 9:50 am #

    Great stuff Matt! Congrats! That’s such a beautiful line – one of the best on Table Mountain. If I could’ve, I would’ve done it years ago. Amazing that Clint didn’t do it 10 years ago and Andy de Klerk or Jonathan Fisher 25 years ago – one of the great ‘overlooked’.

  7. Mokganjetsi Mar 13, 2013 at 10:30 am #

    Fantastic achievement dude! Congrats. Can’t wait for the second+ ascents to see what the consensus grading is. Inspirational stuff!

  8. Chris F Mar 13, 2013 at 2:44 pm #

    Good work fella. What is this “new era” though?

  9. Donovan Mar 14, 2013 at 2:51 pm #

    Well done matt!

  10. Snort Mar 14, 2013 at 6:32 pm #

    Of all the hard new headpoints, this in my opinion is the best line on TM, because it is a line. Most of the other Uber Hard routes (grade 26) or more are in-betweeners as crack lines or arrettes on TM are in short supply. Now it remains to be seen whether the 2nd and 3rd pitch can be combined as this is the way it should surely be refined as a hanging stance surely lessens the route. Up to you Matt, Jimbo, Clint, Pedley, Brian et all. It would surely push up the grade a little and make this the ultimate test piece on TM on one of the best, if not the best line. That’s not to say that the climbing and the difficulty and the achievements and even the aesthetics of any of the other recent and not so recent hard routes are any the lesser. But this as a route and a line takes the cake. This is not sport climbing on trad gear in my book…

    In short, well done Matt!

    I suggest anyone that tries use skinny ropes and light gear to lessen the drag….A decent bottle of Malt on for anyone that succeeds (exchangeable for gear at CR/MMO).

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