New routes – Western Cape

Homemade climbing hangers

Homemade climbing hangers that have been replaced courtesy of Clinton and Guy.

Clinton Martinengo and Jimbo Smith have been climbing furiously.  Clinton has opened new routes in Oorlogs Kloof and re-bolted a crag in the area.
Snort has put Jimbo to task on TM, which has resulted in a new line and some fine climbing!

Clinton Martinengo re-bolted the Canasta buttress and also opened a new buttress called the Seamster Buttress in Oorlogs kloof last December (2012).  Clinton says that despite there not being many lines to be had – “what is there, will be good!”

Check out the Oorlogs Kloof Route Descriptions below:

Clinton is sponsored by First Ascent, Beal, Black Diamond and 5.10.

Clinton Martinengo on Golden Sickle

Clinton Martinengo on Golden Sickle (27) at the Canasta Buttress, Oorlogs Kloof.  Photo by Jan Fischer

Jimbo Smith on 'The Squid and the Whale' (31), Fountain Ledge.  Table Mountain.

Jimbo Smith on ‘The Squid and the Whale’ (31), Fountain Ledge. Table Mountain. Photo by Charles Edelstein

Meanwhile Snort has put Jimbo to task on TM.
With no fear of bombing onto small pieces of gear Jimbo made the second ascent Double Jeopardy (30) on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain in January.
He then went on to open his most recent trad project which goes at grade +-31.  The new route is called ‘The Squid and the Whale‘ and is to the left of Jeopardy and Double Jeopardy.
Jimbo reckons it is hard (Snort says he makes it look easy).

Snort continued to putting Jimbo to task which resulted in a Flash of TATWOC (25).  He also gave ‘TATWOC Direct’ an onsight attempt but fell off.  He then went on to onsight ‘Out to Lunch’ (24).  Snort comments “This is not a route that receives many on-sights. In fact I don’t know of an on-sight. It is steep, tricky and intimidating.
At least he admitted he got a little pumped….. Makes us lesser mortals feel a little better.”

With no stopping Jimbo’s continuation of onsight’s he fired up the immaculate ‘Uber Huber’ (26) trad on the 26th of February.  Apparently this is the first on-sight since the grade was upped when a hold broke off some years ago.  (And that’s not for lack of trying by a couple of our better trad climbers).

Uber Huber, Table Mountain rock climbing

Jimbo Smith onsighting ‘Uber Huber’ 26 on Table Mountain. Photo by Charles Edelstein.

Jan Fischer


6 Responses to New routes – Western Cape

  1. Richard Mar 1, 2013 at 12:05 pm #

    Indeed, there has been much new trad route activity this summer in the Western Cape.

    Just at the 3 areas I have been keeping an eye one, since I have been busy there, I am aware of 20 new lines since December:

    Table Mountain: 9
    Lion’s Head: 6
    Tafelberg: 5

    And there are plenty more IP…

  2. Clinton Mar 1, 2013 at 3:34 pm #

    Awesome stuff you are doing Jimbo. There is so much psych out there at the moment.
    For the record I on-sighted Out to Lunch about ten years back.

  3. andrew p Mar 1, 2013 at 8:15 pm #

    This is excellent, actually makes me psyched for some TM action. Cool that someone else is doing cool new hard stuff in the Cape, other than Clint! Snort, I also think I did Out for Lunch couple weekends ago, with tic bite fever and a borrowed rack, onsight…a steep 24 starting up the steep face L of dynamite somewhere, moving L around the corner and up the long face? Cool route. A

  4. chaos Mar 3, 2013 at 2:43 pm #

    “With tickbite fever and a borrowed rack”….just had to add that in there,didnt you Andrew. Honestly,no one cares.

  5. andrew p Mar 4, 2013 at 7:54 am #

    howzit chaos, my point was that 24 onsight is totally un newsworthy, nor is 25 or 26 onsight, so i dont know why it even gets a mention in the article which is about a 31 on trad which is amazing.

  6. jimbo Mar 5, 2013 at 1:58 pm #

    I’d tend to agree with you Andrew, onsighting out to lunch was pretty un newsworthy. I am sure that it has been onsighted often. In fact I am sure there are a lot more amazing trad onsights but unless you are Snort’s new best friend, no one will ever hear about them 🙂

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