The SA climbing Academy, currently running an independent NBL this year has been a huge success so far. The focus has been on a good vive, hard climbing and awesome problems which really make you think. After almost every comp I have had a lot of our top boulderers come up to me and say the problems were really awesome tonight. Following the NBL WC format has also been a good move. We found this matches what you actually do on rock very well. The counting of attempts and the pressure of having to flash very hard boulder moves puts falseness to the event which chocks the fun a lot. Working with friends and trying moves at your absolute limit, again and again, is what bouldering is all about.
We are having our final on Tues the 19 March just before the long weekend of Human Rights Day (21 March). We are moving the volumes around again to create some more unique challenges. We privileged to have Andrew Pedley, Brian Weaver, Russel Hattingh, Lorne Schnugh help with the setting. This is going to be something to see, the top guys from KZN and Pretoria University are all coming to see if they can humble Joberg’s strongest; Calrin, Dylan, Ivan, Severin, Rowan, Tristan. We setting, moving grips and volumes around on Sunday and then we closing the gym early on Monday 8pm to do final checking and taping. The u 13 will be in the afternoon and the U19 and adults will start at 6pm that evening of the Tuesday the 19th. The top 8 climbers in the adult male will be the adult open, and then the next 8 in order will be the intermediate adult male group (thus the top 16 adult men go through in 2 categories). The other categories the top 4 will go through. This excludes the top ranked from other leagues if they want to come along for the challenge, everybody who has done well is welcome, just let me know if you coming before hand (Open men and women and U19 male only). The idea is to minimise the isolation but prevent any unfair advantage. All the competitors will first climb 4 problems marked out which will produce the top 4 climbers in the 2 adult male and U19 male categories and 3 climbers from the other categories, for the final. They will have an hour to do these 4 problems, just bonus grips and top out count, no counting attempts. We will have watching judges. These finalists will go into isolation and the fourth or third placement will come out first to have 4 or 5 min to work a line followed by the next ranked. The first climber out can stay behind to watch the next climber, when the third comes out of isolation the first and second will be watching etc. We will alternate the 4 categories to allow sufficient rest time, (we may have more than one category at a time). We will have only 2 final climbs per category due to time constraints. (These rules are not fixed and firm and may be altered, we will let everybody know the final rules clearly before we start on the day). The money made from the league we putting straight back into prizes so the following prizes are on offer:
- U13: first; place R250.00, second place R100.00, and third R50.00
- U19: first; R1000, second place R500.00 and third R250.00
- Women first: R700.00, second place R400.00 and third R200.00
- Men intermediate: first R700.00, second place R400.00 and third R200.00
- Men Open: first R1200, second R500.00 and third R250.00
We have lots of additional other prizes as well.
Below is the ranking so far, this was calculated by our very own actuary Henk Appelo, who went to great lengths to undergo this tall task of number crunching. Essentially this is the best of your top 3 results. He has computed for the fact that some of the comps had higher scores and there were shared winners. Thus if you did well in a hard comp you got extra merit. If you have only attended 2 of the comps your result is much lower, but attending a third comp at the last round which is on Mon/Tues 11 and 12 March will put you up many places. Those who are up there, don’t get comfortable, the results may change significantly after the last round. Next week the 4 and 5 March there is no comp as we will be resting from the Rory, but the same problems from this week will be left up for those who want to work them more (said to be our best so far).
Ivan van der Tang
Gerhard Le Roux
Richard da Silva
The following climbers were either setting or just came to climb the problems but chose not to hand in score cards. They just wanted to challenge themselves and get a bit of the vibe (alphabetical order by first name).
Willem Le Roux (one evening on business from Cape Town)
Total attending the SACA NBL so far: 73 climbers .