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Space Race – a new route on Table Mountain

The First Ascent of Space Race – a new route on Table Mountain

(or, The Story of a Helmet)

By Hilton Davies

I pictured Guy walking around Bishops, his school, wearing his school hoodie, looking like a cadaver that was roughly sutured back together.  The story is a little like this…

I called Lisa, mother of my climbing buddy Guy Paterson-Jones, to ask how I could go about replacing Guy’s hoodie.  Lisa wouldn’t hear of it and was adamant that Guy wouldn’t either.  She told me that he was perfectly happy with the reconstruction job that she had done.  I didn’t feel too good about this as I was more than a little responsible.

The First Ascent of Space Race

Hilton’s damaged helmet

 

In ER at a Cape Town hospital in the middle of the night last 18th August the staff had taken scissors to Guy’s hoodie which I was wearing.  They cut up the length of the arms and up the middle of the front.  They did much the same for the rest of my clothing while my wife Helen and son Kieren adjusted me as necessary.  My friends Andy Wood, Rik de Decker, Douw Steyn, Roy White, Anthony Hall and others had arranged this last part of my Saturday night.
Kinda…

The First Ascent of Space Race

Hilton railing under the roof crack

 

To re-wind a little…

Guy and I had spent the afternoon on Table Mountain working on our Space Race project.  It was our third or fourth session on the project.  I had led the desperate first pitch to the right of Farewell to Arms up the steep white wall to the big rail and then out the enormous triangular overhang using tips of knifeblade pitons, tiny C3s and the smallest RPs.  The free climbing was hard, committing and relentless but the aid climbing was desperate.  It required high-stepping to get flat against the roof to reach piton placements that were at maximum extension.  The tiniest RP placements with wires like dental floss were tenuous.  In fact when Guy came up second, his extra couple of kilos popped an RP and a piton and he swung out towards the Atlantic.
For me on the lead end a zipper fall back into the wall from six or seven metres out was the big scare.

We got through this tough first pitch as night descended and an icy winter wind picked up.  On the platform above the roof we fiddled in the murky blackness to place gear that we would rappel off.  It felt serious, but we managed to land back on earth.  We pulled the ropes down and while Guy remained behind to sort out any snagging, I dragged the ropes and solo’d across to the base of Arms Race.  The last cable car of the day had left an hour earlier and we would have to feel our way down Table Mountain without headlamps and with no moon.

The First Ascent of Space Race

Guy following Pitch 1

 

I pulled the ropes across and began to scope the scramble descent.  Peering into the dark void my middle-aged eyesight discerned a ledge that I could step down onto.

I stepped.  But there was nothing there.

As I plunged my first thought was to grab the ledge.  My second thought was that I’d just killed myself.

Helmets are a pain and I usually don’t wear one.  But on this day I did.  And after falling about seven metres I impacted head-first on a sharp rock, bounced, rolled down a steep ledge and then went into free fall.  At this stage I was surprised that I was still alive but sure that I had only seconds left.  A few seconds after impact, and after falling about 20m in total, I was again surprised, but at this stage I was sure that I was experiencing multiple organ failure.  The pain in my chest was indescribable.  But after a while I was able to communicate with Guy and asked him to call Helen and to tell her to ask Andy Wood to come and fetch me below Touch and Go.
I could count on Andy.

It was cold.  MCSA Rescue told Guy to stay where he was.  I told him to get to me.  Guy eventually got to me after an hour of brail climbing.  I needed his body heat before I died of shock and exposure.  Guy held the phone to my ear while I said goodbye to Helen.

The First Ascent of Space Race

Loaded for the crux

 

Before midnight my friends Douw Steyn and Rik de Decker arrived.  I felt a deep and abiding love for them.  If anyone could save me these two great climbers and expert doctor could.  Then my friend Roy White pitched up, followed by a squadron of kind rescuers.
Saturday night was looking up.

The party became quite festive and Andy had arranged first class travel.  The guys generously carried me in a nice bed with many straps and poles, and they had wrapped me in some crinkle-wrap.  It was getting more pleasant, and then I had a deep-space ride up into the orbiting and stationery cable car.  Andy, Ant Hall and others put their backs into it and pulled me right up.  It was good to see my mates, and Ant kindly warmed my very cold hands.  It was a balmy 4 degrees Celsius in the cable station and in the cable car we were out of the icy wind that had been hurting Guy and I so much.

To cut a very long story a little shorter, what followed was ambulances, hospitals, operations, rehabilitation etc.  Only in November did I start walking again.  In December I started fast walks up mountains, and in January I started climbing.  It takes time when you’ve damaged all those soft things inside you.  And broken an arm and your back.

I’m weak and sore.  But becoming less of both.  When I climbed some moderate old country routes in January and February with my buddies Guy and Neil Havenga, I seriously thought about quitting climbing.
It was very hard and I suffered.

The First Ascent of Space Race

Guy latched on

But things progressed and March was better and April was pretty good.  Guy and I had a good Tafelberg trip.  Kieren and I had a good outing on Valken, I held Kai Fitchen when he took a 10m screamer on Last Tango and with dedicated belaying by my old buddy Alan Ross, I could do some concentrated cranking on sport routes and managed to get my fastest time on Sterling Silver down to 1m 37 seconds.

Finally, I felt ready for a re-match.

Whilst Guy and I had climbed all of Space Race, we hadn’t done it in one go.  Also we hadn’t climbed what we thought could be a good variation to give an entirely free route.  The roof will never go free – well not until there is some significant tectonic movement.  For more than a metre at a time there is no crack at all, and then the crack may be as thin as a toothpick.

Sunday 5 May dawned a world-class day.  We had the odd minor hitch in getting on to Space Race, like Guy not having a belay device, but nothing so serious that things like body-belaying couldn’t fix.  The first pitch was again pretty tough in getting up the slightly overhanging wall to the big rail.  And the first 6 or 7 metres off the ledge involves some commitment.

This time I wasn’t weighed down by hammer and pitons but I was by Camalots no’s 6, 5 and 4.  Those babies are big!
The 15m rail across to intersect Last Tango is excellent and gives a fantastic free pitch that goes at about 23 and S3.  S3 is a term used by Snort and I to indicate a seriousness factor and more or less adds what feels like 3 grades to the overall toughness.

The First Ascent of Space Race

The Long Rail

 

Guy came bounding up to my hanging stance while I said hello to Ross Suter and then led through on Last Tango to the platform stance above the lip of the enormous roof to re-join Space Race.  This is such a nice variation and will appeal to guys who don’t want to suffer through hard aid.

From the platform stance Guy boldly took on the ‘bottle pitch’ while Fiona, a hiker,  took photographs from Fountain Path below using an Apple iPhone.  A hard crank gets one around the roof above the stance and then it’s a case of firing up the middle of the beautiful slightly-overhanging white wall in-between Last Tango and The Cruise.  At about 16m up the wall Guy came to the last small rail.  Here he sunk two cams and then committed to the smooth and gearless top section of about 6m.  Each move goes at about 22 but the sting in the tail is latching the sandy ledge and having to mantel off the overhanging wall onto sand and loose rubble.  Guy didn’t lose his bottle.
The youngster has a mind like set-concrete.

The First Ascent of Space Race

No Gear after this

 

Cableway Crag, Last Tango, The Cruise and The Dream all finish at this rubbly ledge and scramble off up to the right to get up onto the Magnetic Ledge.  Our next pitch, another bottle pitch for the young beast goes up the steep, smooth and gearless slab directly above the ledge.  It then takes a few rails and crimps over a little overhanging buttress to get onto the Magnetic Ledge.  We had done the gearless slab on top rope a couple of times and Guy was confident he could keep his bottle on this one.
It has ugly fall potential onto the ledge and over the edge but Guy was smooth and calm and although it only goes at about 19 it is a definite S4 or S5.
Guy is in a very small class of seventeen year-old supreme tradmeisters.  (But not for much longer as he turns 18 in a few days!)

The First Ascent of Space Race

Fiona’s iPhone photo of Guy about to run it out on Pitch 2

 

Most of us head along the Magnetic Ledge to the rappel points and abseil down.  But when we want to top-out from Touch and Go or Arms Race, we do that crank through the notch in the roof above, and then up the easy wall to the top.  For Space Race our top pitch starts two metres to the right, through the very improbable big roof.  We use a couple of underclings in the roof to find jugs on the out-of-sight wall then do a good old-fashioned “arm pull” from the ‘fifties or a new-fashioned “campus” from the ‘nineties, to get onto the steep wall.
Once established we go slightly right to get onto the aesthetic arête and climb lovely gargoyles to the top and finish in the overhang where we leave backpacks.

The First Ascent of Space Race

Guy on the gearless slab

 

All-in-all Space Race is an excellent route for all-round, big-wall climber-types and Space Race Free is an excellent route for climbers with a bit of bottle.

Oh, and the name:  first there was Farewell to Arms made by Dave Cheesmond and my brother Dave Davies in 1978.
Then came Arms Race made by my buddies Andy de Klerk, Ed February and Greg Lacey in 1982. (Three of the five have died too young).
After the cold war Arms Race came the 1960s Space Race.  And also that roof is way-spacy!

The First Ascent of Space Race

Cutting free after aiding the huge roof

Route Description:

This route starts on The Dream ledge 3m to the right of Farewell to Arms.  This is not directly below the roof crack but a few metres to the left.

Pitch 1 25m 23 A3 S3:  Take-off from blocks, through an overlap, to get on top of a small pillar.  Head up leftwards and then straight up to the big rail.  The first crux is getting to the rail. Place a Camalot no.6 and rail right a few metres to get to the start of the roof crack.  Place a Camalot no.5 in the rail and head-on out for about 7 metres using four knife blade pitons, tiny cams and the smallest RPs.  At the lip of the roof encounter the next crux where you do some desperate and committing cranks with lots of fear of zippering the whole show.  Stance on a great platform next to Last Tango.

[The Space Race Free alternative:  when reaching the rail continue railing right for 15m (a Camalot no.4 and Camalot no. 3 are useful) to intersect Last Tango.  Make a hanging stance at this point.  Continue up the last part of the Last Tango pitch (i.e. up the dihedral and then traverse out to the left) to regain Space Race on the platform.]

Pitch 2 25m 22 S3:  Bust through the notch in the roof and head a little left before going straight up the white wall in-between the crack systems of Last Tango on the left and The Cruise on the right.  Commit to a big run-out on the smooth section at the top until you latch the sandy ledge to stance.

Pitch 3: 12m 19 S4:  Get up to the big smooth slab and get on top of a block.  Take off up the tenuous wall angling left using a vague rising ripple (no gear).  Climb the little overhanging buttress above on the left to get onto the Magnetic Ledge.  Scramble up leftwards to stance under the roof.

Pitch 4: 17m 21 S2:  Using hidden pockets in the big, flat roof reach out to jugs on the wall and crank up.  Head up tending rightwards to get onto the aesthetic arête and climb the gargoyles to the top.

First Ascent: Guy Paterson-Jones and Hilton Davies, 5 May 2013.

The First Ascent of Space Race

Space Race Topo

 

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17 Responses to Space Race – a new route on Table Mountain

  1. andy de klerk May 6, 2013 at 11:34 pm #

    Nice one Hilton and Guy!

  2. Sam May 7, 2013 at 9:21 am #

    What a comeback! Nice one guys – inspiring stuff.

  3. Justin Lawson May 7, 2013 at 2:34 pm #

    Well done Guys!!

  4. Mokganjetsi (Willem B) May 7, 2013 at 5:36 pm #

    well done guys! would you guys suggest the “s” (i assume “serious”?) become standard for all trad routes? and how does it work?

  5. Snort May 8, 2013 at 7:23 am #

    I think you will find routes graded with the “S” bit in the 1982 MCSA journal. It does not really stand for “serious” but rather “Severity” which I suppose is almost the same thing. I tried to introduce this method all those years ago and it never caught on. In the US and elsewhere you have X and R.

    S0 is super safe and easy to protect with back-up pro. I would consider very few bolted climbs as S0 as the 3rd bolt which is often at 4m is not backed up and failure of that bolt would usually result in a deck fall.
    S1 Excellent pro, easy to place but needs some care as do bolted routes. Steep rock with no deck fall possible. An example on TM is Magnetic Wall or Bombay Duck and most of the steeper routes on TM
    S2 Excellent pro, not so easy to place, requires careful belaying, not easily backed up, perhaps a run out…..An Example on TM is Touch and Go.
    S3 Dodgy pro, high fall factor, deck fall potential, dodgy rock: Sanitorium on TM. (Most of the routes on Yellowwood amphitheatre are S3. Fun Time and Smallblaar are S1/S2.
    S4 = x Probably not death but possible Example on TM is, believe it or not, Arrow frontal. I know two people who have fallen on Arrow and one died, one had serious injuries
    S5 = X. You fall or pull of a block you are Xed

    Tony Dick and I climbed Time Warp on Yellowwood yesterday, a route that Hilton has also done. I would grade it 20 S3. Without the S system it would require a grade of 22 but it technically has perhaps 5 moves harder than 19. Protecting it is grade 22 or rather S3 and there is plenty of dodgy rock and placements.

  6. Hilton May 8, 2013 at 12:32 pm #

    Thank you very much Andy, Sam, Justin and Willem – for the kind words! This was a bit of a milestone for me after taking that little fall on TM. Hopefully it’s onwards and upwards…

    Andy, the first time you and I climbed together was when we did Last Tango at an MCSA meet in ’83. Now in this story I’m climbing right there 30 years later but with Guy – and he reminds me so much of a youthful you. He has the potential to also sport climb in the 5.14s; trad climb super hard and scary; alpine climb desperate stuff on big, gnarly mountains. Hopefully Guy and I will do some of that last stuff together.

    Thank you also to Jimbo, Marion, Brian, Andy W, Paul and others who sent me lekker messages. Not you Snort – you suck!

    Willem, I’ll write up my S grading story on the thread that Jimbo started.

  7. Johann May 8, 2013 at 1:03 pm #

    Well done on an impressive route, and an impressive comeback!

  8. jacques May 8, 2013 at 8:32 pm #

    Epic story, much respect oom Hilton and Guy!

  9. Arno May 9, 2013 at 11:11 am #

    “When I climbed some moderate old country routes in January and February with my buddies Guy and Neil Havenga, I seriously thought about quitting climbing.
    It was very hard and I suffered.”

    So, in other words, climbing for me is like being Hilton with a broken back, broken arm and head injuries…everything makes sense now. ;)

    Well done Hilton and Guy! That stuff is RAD!!

  10. Richard May 9, 2013 at 1:17 pm #

    Lekker!

    TM has been busy recently indeed. Well done chaps!
    Hilton, glad you getting back into it and constantly improving. Onwards and upwards!

  11. Mario May 9, 2013 at 4:06 pm #

    Awe inspiring Hilton & Guy!

    MUCH RESPECT!

  12. Richard May 10, 2013 at 3:44 pm #

    Awesome Hilton and Guy. So inspiring. Can’t wait to get back to the Cape, and TM in particular, while there’s still a little life in me :-)

  13. Hector May 12, 2013 at 1:51 pm #

    So glad you’re out climbing and adventuring again Hilton. Well done to both of you on a proud new line!

  14. Hilton May 13, 2013 at 6:47 pm #

    Thanks Johann, Jacques (‘oom’ – ha ha!), Arno (ha ha!), Richard Squeaks, Mario, strong Richard B and my big buddy Hector! Maybe some of you will let me climb with you again…

  15. Ebert May 14, 2013 at 6:26 pm #

    Sick dudes, inspirational

    eT

  16. Nic Le Maitre May 16, 2013 at 2:19 pm #

    Awesome Hilton, glad to hear that you are back climbing again.

  17. Hilton May 19, 2013 at 8:38 pm #

    Thanks Ebert and Nic!

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