Brian Weaver climbing Twilight Floozie (8a) and Ivory Madonna (7a+) at the Black Diamond Tradathon 2013
Nice send Brian, well done !
No chance of placing gear on TF as you climb it?
For me the send of Ivory Madonna, although ”easier,” is waaaay more impressive as you are placing gear.
TF is kinda like climbing a sport route with pre-placed trad gear no ?
Why isnt it fully bolted? No point in placing gear before or after crux. Keen to get onto it next time in Cederberg Kloof. Nice sport send Brian:)
whats the name of the song?
The song is an instrumental version of “Atreyu – The Remembrance Ballade”
@Paul There are potential placements, however, they are marginal at best and the best placement would occupy the fingerlock that the whole crux revolves around. There might be some micro nuts that can be placed but then the route becomes really scary. There are two bolts there so I figured it easiest just to clip them.
Who cares about the style, it looks like an awesome climb! Nice one bud.
ummm Alan, it was at a Tradathon, not a sportathon !
Ummm, Paul, it was a mixed route. 2 bolts and gear. What do you want Brian to do to make it more ‘trad’? Thread some slings through the hangers and clip those?
Now thats the best suggestion you have made Alan. good boy!
Also, he was not wearing a helmet
About the mixed route thing. Why not place another 2 bolts on TF and do away with the trad gear ?
Or has bolting been outlawed there recently ?
Paul, it’s been outlawed decades ago. The bolts were replaced recently. Brian’s send was the first I know of since then. The story goes that Paul Brouard climbed it on bolts only, so you can treat it as a pure sport route. Adding bolts will not happen. Replacing bolts is acceptable, but only after getting permission from the MCSA. Anyway, big deal if you climb it as a mixed line, it’s not like Brian pretended otherwise.
While you’re talking about what’s more impressive, Ebert and Alex told me they climbed Twist & Shout that day. Now that’s a proper impressive trad climb! I’ve aided it a long time ago and even that was hard. Incidentally, Brian has also climbed it some time ago.
I met Shorti?! wow cool, thought you were a legend or a myth or something. With the fixed nut in on T&S, its not scary after the 1st time:P Brian’s sport send is way more impressive, been eyeing that line for soooo long.
climbers should introduce themself by their forum names:P
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