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American girls crushing hard and Waterval Boven gets its first 34/8c

The visiting American girls have been ticking off Andrew Pedley’s open projects.

– On Saturday Paige Claassen has made the first ascent of the open project, “Digital Warfare”, weighing in at a solid 33/8b+/5.14-
Paige was taken to the WOW Prow by her host Andrew Pedley.

Paige Claassen rock climbing South Africa

Paige Claassen on Digital warfare, 5.14a, at the WOW Prow, South Africa. Photo: Jon Glasserg

– Then yesterday in Waterval Boven Sasha DiGiulian opened Bovens ‘new’ hardest line with the first ascent of the Overlord project at 34/8c/5.14b.

*Update July 11:
Arjan De Kock makes the 2nd ascent and suggests a grade of solid 33/8b+/5.14a.

The route which was also bolted by Andrew Pedley in 2011 is a traverse across a beautiful blank face with a single seam of crimps and then joins up with Big Butterfly (28) for the last 2 – 3 bolts.
Sasha also Flashed “The Beast,” (31/8a+).

 

 

Sasha DiGiulian flashing Waterfall Boven, South Africa.

Sasha DiGiulian flashing “The Beast,” 8a+ in Waterfall Boven, South Africa. Photo by Keith Ladzinski


The guidebook description reads:

THE OVERLORD (OPEN PROJECT). Probably 33 – ish.
Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers.
Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.

Big up to Andrew Pedley for sharing his lines and being an excellent host!

Sasha DiGiulian climbing South Africa

Sasha DiGiulian on The Overlord Project. Photo by Andy Mann

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8 Responses to American girls crushing hard and Waterval Boven gets its first 34/8c

  1. andrew p Jul 8, 2013 at 12:30 pm #

    nice work sasha! I cant wait to try it without the knee bar.
    The Overlord in case you were wondering is the king of the hippos in a hippo community, the big boss who fights off all the wanna be king hippos! Please please keep the name…..
    So that’s 2 of the open projects gone, still 2 more though, just as good though a bit harder. Shear Force at the Right Wing and of course Double Dragon at Narrow kloof but the latter one is closed to American girls!
    Andrew

  2. Flex Jul 8, 2013 at 2:11 pm #

    Is Double Dragon open to South African girls?

  3. ScottS Jul 9, 2013 at 10:44 am #

    News flash: Flex ticks first ascent of Double Dragon dressed in sports bra and blonde wig…

  4. MarkM Jul 10, 2013 at 4:05 pm #

    Looks like she ain’t keeping the name Andrew P

    From 8a.nu

    Sasha Digulian has opend Rolihlahla in Waterfall Boven and the 22 year old increases the lead in the ranking game, as she has hold for some years now. This is what she writes on Instagram. (c) Keith Ladzinski

    “As far as I know, and I can of course be mistaken, this is the hardest ever sport climbing first ascent by a woman. Beth Rodden’s 2008 traditional test piece Meltdown in Yosemite, which has yet to see a repeat is called ~8c+, but I don’t know if Rodden herself ever suggested a grade.

    I am thinking that the grade is around 8c/+ and the name in my mind now is Rolihlahla. Nelson Mandela’s middle name and also colloquially, “trouble maker!”.”

  5. Mokganjetsi (Willem B) Jul 11, 2013 at 10:27 am #

    An awesome achievement on an amazing looking line! Sasha’s suggested name change does strike a happy chord with me; something fitting to honour a great man; the Overlord of a peaceful transition :) I guess doing you first “first ascent” really makes you want to “own” it. And it does highlight how spoilt we are for quality first ascents here in SA.

  6. Brian Weaver Jul 11, 2013 at 10:03 pm #

    Second ascent by Arjan De Kock! Nice one bud!! Arjan suggests solid 8b+…

  7. jacques Jul 12, 2013 at 5:56 pm #

    magtag, die kinners is sterk….

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