MCSA Rock Climbing Sub-Committee August 2013 Newsletter

Hi Climbing Community,

Please see the below latest news that the MCSA Rock Climbing Committee is working on and please don’t hesitate to contact us with any suggestions, information or offers to assist us with any of the below items.

Redhill Bouldering EMP
The Moratorium on Redhill has been lifted.  Please ensure that you carry the MCSA letter with you when you go climbing in Redhill to inform any SANP rangers who may not have been notified of this change as yet.  The letter can be found here.


scc anchor failure

The bolt which failed at Kleinmond due to Stress Corrosion Cracking in 2012– Click to enlarge

ARF and Rebolting
On 18 August is the Gravity Festival in Kleinmond.  At last year’s event a bolt failed on Percolator, and not wanting a repeat of this we have been rebolting the area with glue ins over the winter.  About 75% of the 40 routes have been rebolted, with the remaining routes being the less popular ones, this includes the entire top tier (with one exception) and yes, including the one that failed.  Should you want to contribute time or money to the ARF please contact Andy Davies via

Boschkloof Crag
The MCSA is working on re-opening Boschkloof crag but please be aware that this is a slow and delicate project.  We kindly ask that all climbers continue to respect the no-go zone at this crag.

MCSA Meets
Further to a few Trad and Sport climbing meets that have taken place this year, we have found that there is a need for more.  More people are interested in trying their hands at climbing and others are just starting at the sport and would like to learn more.  We are looking for more volunteers to assist with one or both of the below types of meets:

Beginner’s Trad Climbing, including gear placement
First Trad Lead Climbing
Beginner Sport Climbing – top rope and lead

Please can anyone keen to lead any meets contact

MCSA Club House Wall Upgrade
The new wall is up and ready to climb.  Kindly note the following new openings times of the climbing wall:

Mondays 10:00 to 14:00
20:00 to 21:00
Tuesdays 10:00 to 14:00
18:00 to 21:30
Wednesdays 10:00 to 14:00
19:30 to 21:00
Thursdays 10:00 to 14:00
18:30 to 21:00
Fridays 10:00 to 14:00
19:30 to 21:30

Peers Cave ‘Hey Dude’ Clean Up
Anyone keen to tag along to clean the graffiti off the “Hey Dude” wall at Peer’s Cave, please email

The Port Jackson Wacking Committee and The Mine Path Maintenance
A huge thank you to whoever went and did some weed-wacking on The Mine Path.  The MCSA will be arranging new poles and additional maintenance in October this year.  Anyone who is keen to assist with this, please email

no climbing signBlack Shadow Access
The MCSA has organised with the landowner and a professional to clean up Black Shadow.  The graffiti will be removed in October 2013 and the landowner will be putting up new fences and an access gate for the climbers.  The MCSA will be putting a sign up later this month notifying climbers that this area is off limits to climbing.

Rocklands State
Tea Garden has been closed down to climbing due to excessive defaecating, littering and path destruction by boulderers.  The MCSA is heading up meetings with the landowners and Cape Nature to sort out the permit system and to educate the climbing community of its responsibilities to the environment.  Please email if you would like to assist in any way.

SANP and Trad
SANP is trying to implement an activity permit requirement for trad climbing.  The MCSA is firmly against this and is currently dealing with the issue.  Please ensure that all climbers carry the Activity Permit letter from the MCSA with them when climbing in case of any run ins with rangers.  The letter can be downloaded from here.  Hard copies will be available on the MCSA wall at City Rock Climbing gym.

New Members
A special note to introduce Brittany Bunce and Cuan Lohrentz to our Rock Climbing Committee – welcome and thank you for coming on board to assist us.

The next Rock Sub-Committee Newsletter will be coming out in October 2013.

All queries regarding the above to be sent

If anyone has any information or requests that you feel the Rock Sub Committee should be aware of, please email

Rock Climbing Sub-Committee Newsletter


2 Responses to MCSA Rock Climbing Sub-Committee August 2013 Newsletter

  1. Andy Davies Aug 14, 2013 at 3:55 pm #

    Maybe the no climbing sign for Rocklands should be repeated in the multitude of European languages instead of Afrikaans & Xhosa 🙂

  2. Kimbo Brown-Schirato Aug 14, 2013 at 4:40 pm #

    Andy Davies – I totally agree. I live in Carbondale, CO and we go down to Indian Creek in the spring and fall, and the bloody Euro-trash literally defecates on the trails around each crag. Amazing. Nothing like belaying in the desert heat with the stench of human you-know-what emanating around you.

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