MCSA Rock Climbing Committee November 2013 Newsletter

MCSA logoHi Climbing Community,

Please see the below latest news that the MCSA Rock Climbing Committee is working on and please don’t hesitate to contact us with any suggestions, information or offers to assist us with any of the below items.

Bouldering EMP
Due to the continued silence of SANP, the Rock Climbing Committee is going to finalise the draft of the Bouldering EMP and approve it before posting it on the forums for the climbing community to view.
In lieu of the recent incidents up at Echo Valley where SANP Rangers have been challenging boulderers, a notice will be posted shortly on the Climbing Forums, informing the bouldering community on what actions to take. Again, a reminder to keep the permit letter on you at all times. The letter can be found here.

Anchor Replacement FundARF and Rebolting
No more rebolting will take place this year but look out for meets taking place in 2014 at the following crags:
• Kalk Bay
• Remaining areas in Kleinmond
• Fawlty Towers
• A few routes on Hellfire
• Cloud 9 and Pump House at Lower Silvermine

Boschkloof Crag
The MCSA is working on re-opening Boschkloof crag but please be aware that this is a slow and delicate project. We kindly ask that all climbers continue to respect the no-go zone at this crag.

The Port Jackson Wacking Committee and The Mine Path Maintenance
The MCSA Rock Climbing Committee has upgraded and cleared the path.

Black Shadow, Rocklands

Marijus Smigelskis on ‘Black Shadow’ (8B) at Rocklands. Photo by: Julia Chen

Black Shadow Access
The SA Heritage Site Council has done an investigation of the Black Shadow Boulder and has found historical rock paintings and rock art. Black Shadow may be deemed an historical site and remain closed to climbing permanently. We are waiting on confirmation of this. Please continue to observe the closure of Tea Garden.

Rocklands State
The Annual Rocklands Clean up has been done and the private landowners are in the process of approving an online permit system and multi-lingual signage on their lands.
The Rock Climbing Committee and Access Committee are still trying to set up a meeting with CapeNature about their lands and fees but are being met by reluctance and silence.

International Mountain Day 2013International Mountain Day 2013
International Mountain Day will be taking place on Wednesday 11th December 2013. We will be holding the following meets in the afternoon:

• Hiking (TBC)
• Sport and Trad on Lion’s Head
• Bouldering at CBD Bright Lights

There will be food, beer and a party at the MCSA Club House that evening. More details to follow in the MCSA Mountain Ears and Climb ZA.

Local Organising Committees
The Rock Climbing Committee has formed the below LOCs with your representatives for each:

ARF: Cormac Tooze and Douw Steyn
Rocklands: Brittany Bunce and Delaney Carpenter
Bouldering EMP: Brittany Bunce, Niel Mostert, Cuan Lohrentz
Montagu Rock Rally: Delaney Carpenter

The next Rock Sub-Committee Newsletter will be coming out in February 2014.

All queries regarding the above to be sent to

If anyone has any information or requests that you feel the Rock Climbing Committee should be aware of, please email

The MCSA Rock Climbing Sub Committee Members:
Delaney Carpenter (Chairperson)
Andy Davies (Vice Chairperson)
Douw Steyn
Niel Mostert
Cormac Tooze
Warren Gans
Brittany Bunce
Cuan Lohrentz


MCSA Rock Climbing Committee November 2013 Newsletter


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