Update: Mallorca DWS ban still in place

The island has always had its share of problems but usually these are confined to single crags or mountains and the problems have never been bad enough to discourage people from traveling.  Recent proposals and escalating difficulties at some crags have made the situation far more serious.

There are four main problems.

1. Local councils charging for access to climbing areas on public land.
2. Evolving legislation for the Tramuntana mountain range.
3. Private landowners charging for access
4. Local councils prohibiting climbing

Original Article:  Mallorca Access Problems for Walkers and Climbers

Sector Garrafa ( close Solarium sector)

The Solarium sector is located in the buttresses of the Puig de Carafe , forming part of the school called ” Garrafa ”.  This area belongs to the municipality of ” Andratx ”. Usually this school is known by this name.
It is basically a initiation place, by implying a high influx of people every weekend.
The sector itself, is located within the Finca Son Fortuny ( family owned property, so private land).  It was fitted between 2001 and 2003.
Today appear in the two climbing guides published by ( Desnivel and Rockfax).  Without consulting the landowners .
The Solarium sector is within the Zone Bounded as Hunting.
By increasing the influx of climbers, of course, begin conflicts with hunters users, motivated by shared use of space.
Hunters after communicating their disagreements with the climbers to the owners.  Obviously the owners are positioned against the climbers.
After successive years of bad encounters and miscommunication among climbers, hunters and the owner of the farm. The land owner has decided to close the area and unequip the routes.
After fencing and road closure that allows access to the sector in January 2014.  It is the landowner who is contacted with the Balearic Federation of Mountaineering.

The day we met the owner, the Federation and two members of the Balearic Association of Sustainable Climbing was on 01/17/2014.
The owner presents the issue and asks the Federation unequip routes.
As Climbers Association and Federation we oppose it, justifying an ethical issue.
But we offer him to open a negotiation to try reaching an agreement that prevents closure.
We promise the owner to organize cleanups regularly sector, enabling a step ”punch” that ensures the conservation of the fences that keep game species escape the farm. Fix broken barriers by climbers to access his property.  Refine days climbing.  Coordinate compatible use with hunters, etc …
All aimed to make sustainable our sport in the area.

The owner is committed to study the proposal, because it will have to consult with the rest of the owning family , but gives us little hope.
During the conversation, which was at all times friendly, the owner told us that having also bounded for hunting the nearby farm, where is located the bulk of the climbing school.
Although the land is not him (it is from a friend), they decided to expand the total area of hunting ground to prevent poaching.
But he says that ”in the beginning”, the activity we do in the rest of the school would not affect him.  For the purpose of this reserve is deterrent against poaching activities.  But serving notice that if we do not respect his claim could reach close to study the climbing area in its entirety.
Please note that in arriving at the end, we would be willing to sacrifice the Solarium Sector provided certain guarantees to climb with the rest of the school.

We think that the ban throughout the area Bottle can jump in any time.
He says he will talk to the owner of the farm where the bulk of the climbing area was, if we have option to reach some kind of agreement with him concerning the use for climbing (it being in air).
From the Balearic Association of Sustainable Climbing we convey our options are few and weapons to defend are less.
In repeatedly, we have to give reason to the owner on several topics.  Complains of accumulated litter in the sectors.  The screams (noise).  Even some climbers have made threats.  And accidents that have taken place in the area.
We try to convince him that our level of involvement, both from the Sustainable Climbing Balearic Association and by the Balearic Federation of Mountaineering will be high.

We offer our assistance in performing among the group of climbers an awareness campaign to prevent the complete closure of the area.
We commit him to regular cleaning campaigns, for which we ask every body to help for collect litter every time you go climbing.
Adequacy of roads, repairs breakage barriers , install informational signs in the area.  As well as to inform the publishers responsible for publishing the sector climbing guides for the solarium industry exclude future editions.  Because this topic, informs us, has put it in the hands of his lawyer, who is studying possible legal action to take, given the disclosure without consent of the location and means of access to their property.

The owner reaffirms its intention to keep the canopy closed sector, but is committed to study our proposals, informing the owner of the property next door where the majority of the climb and give us an answer.
Dialogue has been opened to something that is not always possible.  As the door to possible negotiations which allow us to obtain a sustainable agreement.

From the Association of Sustainable Climbing awaiting an answer, I want to ask your help to prevent total closure to all Zone Andrax . Located entirely on private farms . And if he has allowed us to climb there is through the courtesy of their owners .
Therefore we ask you utmost respect.  That you measure your behavior when you are in climbing areas to avoid situations that give excuses to owners to close their properties.

  • Respect the roads.
  • Do not break fences.
  • Collect all the garbage to go away sectors.
  • Not everything may be filled with cigarette butts , paper and waste.
  • Burying your bowel movements.
  • No defecating below overhangs.
  • To not shout when coding trackside (this is one of the largest claims by hunters and is something easy to fix).
  • Do not let loose trackside dogs.  Freaks hunters.

From the Balearic Association of Sustainable Climbing climber want the collective awareness that free access to climbing areas depends largely on the behavior and attitudes with which we operate .

Lately, words like prohibition, regulation, management of climbing areas are starting to sound strong and threaten to maintain access to certain areas.

It is a fact that many of the crags of our islands are found included in a private setting, so climbing should respect both to the environment, as the owners and residents of the areas.


Chris Sharma working a new line in Mallorca

Chris Sharma working a new line in Mallorca


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