Alex Luger, 26, of Voralberg, Austria, has completed the first ascent of a cutting-edge, trad testpiece at his home crag of Bürser Platte. Legendary free-climbing pioneer, Beat Kammerlander, reports that Luger’s ascent of Psychogramm (32/33 – 5.14)— which Luger climbed in February of this year — is technically demanding, and when asked about the route’s protection, Kammerlander simply wrote, “scary” in an e-mail to Rock and Ice.
Luger says “In the beginning, it wasn’t a project at all because the line appeared to be unrealistic to climb clean to me,” wrote Luger in a recent e-mail. “On the one hand there was the insecure crux at the top I could only climb every 10 times, and on the other the delicate protection.”
Eventually, Luger set off for the lead, and climbed into the route’s crux, which involves running it out above a micro-nut. On his first attempt, however, Luger fell and tested the strength of the protection. Luckily, the nut held and bolstered his confidence.
“After three more attempts I managed the clean redpoint of Psychogramm, another personal highlight,” wrote Luger.
Full article on: Rockandice.com
Video Below: Luger climbing a highball in Ticino, Switzerland.