Quantcast

Andrea Biffi Sends Seven at Oudtshoorn + more

Andrea Biffi Climbing Seven Oudtshoorn

Andrea Biffi Climbing Seven (32/8b) at Oudtshoorn.

Montagu resident, Andrea Biffi (who recently sent Not For Sale 31/8a+) spent 4 days in early May trying to point Seven (32/8b) at Oudtshoorn Main Crag.

The schedule goes as follows:

Day 1:  Places the draws on warm up, but flaila on the crux move
Day 2:   After 3 more attempts he manages to make the crux move
Day 3:  After another 5 attempts (each higher than the last) – On the last attempt, he fell at the hard move, just before the last 10 meters of easy climbing (before the chains)!
Day 4:  With worn skin (and not wanting to give up, Andrea went on to give it a further 4 attempts (taking into account that he’s also been warming up properly) and continued to fall on the last hard move.

A somewhat dissapointed but (probably a bit more motivated) Andrea returned to Montagu.

4 days later:
Andrea’s mom was up for a trip (+ she wanted to see her boy send the route) and so they went through again.  The weather forecast wasn’t looking optimistic, with predictions of showers.  However more psyche was found via Clifford (Hakimi) and Mikela (Sinovich) who joined them for the trip.

Upon arrival it was raining, but there was also wind, and after a while the rain stopped.  Making for perfect dry and cool conditions (Andrea says it was the driest he had ever felt there before).
Andrea started up the route placing draws for a warm up.  With the moves looking easy, Andrea was feeling confident.  After a half hour rest, Andrea sent the route with not too much effort!

Inbetween Mikela had onsighted Goony Goo-goo (6c/22) and then Clifford sent the Wimp Finish of Seven (7c+/29) on his second go (he had tried it once a couple of years back).
Then Andrea had a go at El Nino (30/8a).  I had tried the route once January, however I couldn’t read the crux and backed off.   However this time after loading the draws on the route, he walked through the crux bagging the route on his second attempt.  Bagging an 8b and an 8a in a day for any climber is good doing and for Andrea, this was has been his best (so far :)
Carry on the train of strong climbing for the day, Mikela sent Phallic Mechanic (24/7a) on her third go (apparently say she made it look very easy).

The following week (starting on Monday) Andrea went on to send…
Monday:  Rad and Bad (29/7c+) at Supertubes
Tuesday:  Ben Dover (29/7c+) at the scoop, on his 2nd attempt
Thursday:  Strange Days (31/8a+) at the Palace.  Again, this was a 2nd attempt.

The video below starts off good, however the the sun comes in (and exits much later).

YouTube Preview Image

, ,

No comments yet.

Leave a Comment/Reply/Review