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Kalk Bay ARF Meet Report 2014

Anchor Replacement FundOur Anchor Replacement Fund (ARF) meet at Kalk Bay Crag  almost never happened this past w/e due to 2 factors:

1)  The Murder that took place on the path on the way to the crag this past week.
2)  The rain in the preceding days that would lead to excessive seepage.

So we decided to stay together as a large group and tackle the seepage like Brits and get on with it!
Most of the crew met at Olympia cafe for some great coffee, breakfast and laughs.  We then proceeded onto the crag.

  • Please make a note in your diary – Next ARF meet set for 30 August, Kleinmond

Turn out was not great to be honest, but I did not push too hard for this event as we only need to complete 3 routes and chop the balance of bolts/routes left over from the past meet.

I have been ARF’ing for 2 years now and still am learning the art.  In the past we had drills & grinders whose batteries were not lasting very long, so routes were either partially glued and chopping (removing of bolts) not complete.

With regards to my involvement, this was the most successful ARF meet to date due to the fact that we completed all the routes we set out to do.  It can only get better over time as we are learning to be more efficient and we have managed to purchase quite a bit of new equipment to help optimise our time on the day.

Granted we only bolted 3 routes, but they were tough to do, due to the steep nature of the rock.
We also got to chop routes left over from the last meet.

I learn’t a lot on the day when it comes to aiding these types of routes and that it takes more time to complete.

I also learn’t that it’s fine to hang off your newly glued bolt after 1 hour (as per local distributor and glue pack instructions).  The drying time is based on the ambient temp – some chemical anchors can still be soft after 2 days!
But I was never that trusting that I could or should trust my life on something I glued and hour ago… technology is amazing.

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Drilling, gluing and chopping on overhanging routes is very tiring and we were all quite blown by the end of the day.

We noticed that Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) had taken place on the first bolt of a sandbag (24) – the bolt failed with little effort when removing it (bolt below).
This is why we are doing what we are doing, to save our fellow climbers from harm!

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The bolt that was removed from the start (first bolt) of Dickless Ticks, this old bolt has signs of stress crack corrosion and would have snapped under very little weight. Hidden death traps like this are the reason we are doing ARF.

 

So the the 2014 June Kalk Bay ARF Meet was successful and all the suspect bolts and older routes at Kalk Bay crags have now been replaced/rebolted.

There are still mechanical anchor routes at the crag, but those are newer routes.

Routes completed:

Dickless Ticks (24)
WYSIWYG (25)
Tetris (25)

The heroes of the day were:

Cormac Tooze
Warren Gans
Cuan Lohrentz
Brian Watts
Aimée Chiat
Charles Bowker
Wesley Scott New
Greg Hart
Catherine Day
Cornell and Lauren
Thanks to all that contributed (I don’t think I left anyone off the list!?)

Please make a note in your diary – Next ARF meet set for 30 August, Kleinmond

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Related articles:

Anchor Replacement Fund

Placing glue into a bolt hole

Anchor Replacement Fund

Installing a glue in (chemical) anchor at Kalk Bay

Anchor Replacement Fund

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2 Responses to Kalk Bay ARF Meet Report 2014

  1. Andy Davies Jul 1, 2014 at 12:48 pm #

    Awesome thanks everyone!

  2. justin Jul 2, 2014 at 9:51 am #

    Thanks to all involved, much appreciated :)

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