Angy Eiter and her boyfriend Bernie spent Easter in Spain, during their stay Angy sent ‘Era Vella’ in Margalef (her third 9a).
I aimed to focus on climbing in Santy Linya, where I tried “Fabela pa la Enmienda’ or ‘Open your mind direct’ (both 9a), but it soon got too hot for me there and we went to Margalef. It wasn’t my plan to try “Era Vella”, but when I saw the 50 meter wall, I wanted to get a taste of it.
The route is very steep and requires lots of endurance with more than 100 moves to the top. The climbing is fantastic, so it’s no wonder that “Era Vella” has had more than 30 ascents so far (including two women – Sasha Digiulian and Mar Alvarez). Their videos helped me find the beta, except for the crux, because I don’t like dead point moves in which I have to snap uncontrolled for a hold.
Anyway, I found my solution, a hard cross-over move which made for good progress. After a few attempts I finally sent the route.
The climbing in Spain was a perfect preparation for my upcoming trip to Greece and I feel well prepared to focus on the first ascents in the routes, that Bernie and I have bolted last February in Greece.