2016 National Boulder Series Championships

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Official Information Booklet for the National Boulder Series Championships

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2016 South African National Boulder Series Championships

 

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Official Host

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Official Venue

Semi-Finals – Saturday 16th April 2016
Finals – Sunday 17th April 2016

Hosted by: Western Cape Climbing

Visit www.westerncapeclimbing.co.za and www.sancf.org

For information, rules, opportunities and results

Thank you to our sponsors:

CityRock Gear shop logoPetzl Logo New Media sponsors

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SA-Mountain-Logo

 

Contents

  1. Introduction. 4
  2. Acknowledgement of Sponsors. 5
  3. Date of Nationals. 5
  4. Venue. 5
  5. Refreshments. 5
  6. Prize Giving. 6
  7. Pre-Competition Meetings. 6
  8. Pre-Competition Registration. 6
  9. No of Entrants and Age Groups. 6
  10. Structure of Event. 8
  11. Abridged Timetable. 9
  12. Designated Officials. 10
  13. Warm-Ups. 11
  14. Personal Equipment. 11
  15. Technical incidents. 11
  16. Appeals process. 11
  17. Videoing. 12
  18. Anti-Doping. 12
  19. Medical 12
  20. Accommodation. 12
  21. Fee and Payment. 13
  22. Contact details. 13
  23. Attachments. 14

1. Introduction

On behalf of the SANCF, Western Cape Climbing welcomes all other provinces to the annual SANCF National Boulder Series Championships (NBSC).  This is the second National Bouldering Competition held in the Western Cape. WCC, together with the SANCF, strives to bring continual improvements to competition Sport Climbing in South Africa and indeed give climbing opportunities that our athletes can compete internationally.

 

The 2016 NBSC will be run in accordance with the IFSC Competition Rules (minor local rule amendments might apply) and all athletes, officials and parents are to adhere to SASCOC’s strict code of conduct.

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Important Notes

  1. Punctuality

Please bear in mind that the competition will run strictly according to a timetable, therefore kindly allow enough time for travel delays. Failure to register punctually or arrive in time for isolation might result in a red card for the competitor.

  1. Access to CityROCK

No climbers competing in the National Bouldering Series Championships will be allowed access to CityROCK from 11th April until the start of the competition.

  1. Rules

Please note that it is the responsibility of each climber to memorize and understand the international bouldering competition rules. Failure to abide by the rules could result in disqualification. An abridged copy of the bouldering competition rules is attached to this document and is also available at: www.westerncapeclimbing.co.za. Abridged copies of the rules will be posted at the competition venue at prominent points.

  1. Volunteers

Anyone interested in assisting as an official at the competition, as either judges, stewards, etc., please contact info@westerncapeclimbing.co.za if you would like to help, giving your details, experience and area of assistance. If your child is competing kindly give name and age category.

  1. Sponsorship

We are fortunate to have sponsors for the competition and if anyone has any contact details or suggestions for new sponsors, kindly forward this information on to info@westerncapeclimbing.co.za.

  1. F. Provincial Team Managers Responsibility

Item Due date:

  • Finalize final team list of who is competing and let us know the names and numbers by 1st April 2016
  • Pay the registration fees prior to 4th April 2016

2. Acknowledgement of Sponsors

We are incredibly grateful to CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym for hosting the 2016 National Boulder Series Championships.

Western Cape Climbing would also like to thank the following sponsors:

  • CityROCK Gear Shop and brands Five Ten, Mammut and Evolv
  • Eiger Equipment and Petzl Brands
  • Red Bull
  • Healing Hands

Western Cape Climbing would like to thank the following Media Outlets for publicity of the Competition:

  • SA Mountain Magazine
  • Climb ZA

3. Date of Nationals

The 2016 National Boulder Series Championships, Youth and Open Finals will be held over the following two days:

  • Youth and Open National Boulder Series Championships Semi-Final Rounds on Saturday 16th April 2016.
  • Youth and Open National Boulder Series Championships Finals on Sunday 17th    

April 2016.

4. Venue

Both Youth and Open National Boulder Series Championships Qualifying and Finals will be held at:

CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym

The address is: Corner of Collingwood and Anson Streets, Observatory, Cape Town. For more information, please visit their website www.cityrock.co.za. Refer to the map below or use the following link in Google Maps – City Rock link in Google Maps.

5. Refreshments

No refreshments will be on sale but the Spar and a number of restaurants and takeaways are just up the road from the Venue.

6. Prize Giving

Prize Giving for the National Boulder Series Championships, Youth and Open will take place on Sunday 17th April directly after the Open finals at approximately 05:00pm to 06:00pm at CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym.

7. Pre-Competition Meetings

Technical Meeting

Friday 15th April from 5:00pm until 6:00pm at CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym.

Judges Workshop

Friday 15th April from 6:00pm to 8.00pm at CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym.

8. Pre-Competition Registration

Registration: Opens Tuesday 8th March 2016 and Closes Friday 1st April 2016

Any registrations received after the 4th April 2016 will not be allowed to compete.

Provinces are requested to please send names and the category under which each will be participating to info@westerncapeclimbing.co.za by 1st April 2016.

9. No of Entrants and Age Groups

Maximum of 5 entries per age category (see below), from each province.

The categories are as follows:

  • Open Men & Ladies (Open) – Born in the year of or before the year 1996**
  • U19 Boys & Girls (Junior)   – Born in the years 1997 or 1998
  • U17 Boys & Girls (Youth A) – Born in the years1999 or 2000
  • U15 Boys & Girls (Youth B) – Born in the years 2001 or 2002
  • U13 Boys & Girls (Youth C) – Born in and after 2003

        Note 1: Opens

As per IFSC rules, U17’s and U19’s may compete in the Open category under the following circumstances:

·         That the competitor is at least turning 16 years of age in the year of the competition.

·         The competitor must climb in the age group in which they want to be eligible for international events selection e.g. he/she must also climb in U17’s if that is the age group they are attempting to qualify for selection in.

·         That an U17 (i.e. turning 16 or older in calendar year 2016) or U19 competitor wishing to compete in Opens shall specifically notify the event organizer prior to the competition. The event organizer shall acknowledge receipt of this.

·         That the competitor is required to enter and pay for both categories.

Note 2: Foreign participants

A foreign person who is living in South Africa and does not hold a South African passport:

  • May compete in the nationals.
  • The foreign climber does not form part of a provincial team.
  • The foreign climber should make separate application to compete in the nationals to the SANCF secretary at: secretary@sancf.org along with proof of the climber’s competition climbing ability. If warranted the SANCF will then issue an invitation to the climber.
  • The foreign person wishing to compete in the nationals should pay the competition and SANCF membership fee.
  • Regardless of whether the foreign born person holds a South African passport they are eligible for a podium position.
  • Where a foreign born person has a South African passport (i.e. a person with dual citizenship) they will be eligible to represent South Africa and earn SANCF colours and Protea colours in accordance with SASCOC criteria. In this instance they will form part of a provincial team.

Note 3: International qualification

  • The top six (6) South African climbing athletes may be considered eligible to compete for South Africa as an SANCF member at the IFSC World Cup Competitions. The SANCF, through its Selection Committee, reserves the right to reduce this number.
  • Only International IFSC sanctioned World Championships or World Games etc. will qualify the athletes to become eligible to represent the SANCF and South Africa as a Protea athlete and this is subject to both the SANCF and the athlete meeting SASCOC standards and criteria.

10. Structure of Event

General

The competition will consist of a semi-final round of 4 problems and a final round of 4 problems. All climbers compete in the Semi-Final and the top ranked eight from the Semi-Final will compete in the final round.

A 2 minute viewing per boulder for Semi-Finals will be held before the start of each round and a 5 minute viewing per boulder for the Final will be held before the start of each round.

Climbers may not ask about beta. Climbers may only touch the marked starting holds during this time. No other holds may be touched and feet may not leave the ground.

Scores for rankings are calculated according to, and in order of:

  • the number of Tops awarded;,
  • the fewest attempts to top;
  • the number of bonus points awarded; and,
  • the fewest attempts at reaching the bonus hold.

No score shall be awarded for a “touched” hold.

If any competitors are tied, then the ranking of these competitors from the previous round will be used to break the tie (“countback”).

For the purpose of determining qualification for the Final round, if any competitors are tied following the ranking and countback process described above, the tied climbers will be put through, e.g. climbers ranked equally at 8th will be allowed to compete in the Semi-Final.

To complete a route the climber must comfortably hold the final hold of the route with both hands for 3 seconds or until the judge acknowledges.

A touch of the hold or a mat foot dab (however slight) constitutes a try.

The starting, bonus and finishing holds shall be clearly marked.

The start and end times will be announced by the blow of a whistle by the Time Keeper.

The time remaining will be announced by the Time Keeper.

Isolation rules shall apply to all rounds of Boulder competitions.

Finals Round

  • The highest ranked eight climbers from each category after the semi-final will compete in the Final Round.
  • Any climbers ranked equally at 8th will be allowed to compete in the semi-final following the above procedure of countbacks.
  • The starting order will be in the reverse order of the ranking achieved, i.e. the highest ranked competitor shall climb last.
  • The final will consist of 4 boulders with 4 minutes to complete each boulder.
  • If any 1st placed finals competitors remain tied following the above countback process (the ranking of the previous round shall be used to break the tie), then a “Tie Break” boulder will be held. If the tie relates to any other competitors, the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking

11. Abridged Timetable

These times are subject to change and a revised timetable may be published after the registration cutoff when competitor numbers are known.

Action                                                                        Time

Saturday 16th April 2016

  • Registration                                                  07:30am to 08:30am   (1hr)
  • Introduction & briefing                                  08:30am to 08:55am   (25mins)
  • Semi-Final (Group A):                                  09:00am to 11:00pm   (2hrs)
  • Semi-Final (Group B):                                  11:15am to 01:15pm   (2hrs)
  • Lunch                                                            01:15pm to 01:55pm   (40mins)
  • Semi-Final (Group C):                                  02:00pm to 03:30pm   (1.5hrs)
  • Semi-Final (Group D):                                  03:45pm to 05:15pm   (1.5hrs)
  • Announcement of Semi-Finalists                  05:30pm

Sunday 17th April 2016

  • Check-in and Number Allocation                 08:00am to 08:30am
  • Briefing                                                         08:30am to 08:45am   (15mins)
  • Final Round (Group A):                                09:00am to 10:30am   (1.5hr)
  • Final Round (Group B):                                10:45am to 12:15pm   (1.5hr)
  • Lunch                                                            12:15pm to 12:55pm   (40mins)
  • Final Round (Group C):                                01:00pm to 02:30pm   (1.5hr)
  • Final Round (Group D):                                02:45pm to 04:15pm   (1.5hr)
  • Prize giving                                                   05:00pm to 06:30pm

The above times are approximate and competitors should always arrive early.

Group A: U13 Girls, U15 Girls and U17 Girls

Group B: U13 Boys and U15 Boys

Group C: U19 Girls and Open Ladies

Group D: U17 Boys, U19 Boys and Open Mens

12. Designated Officials

General

Where a designated official’s related party (e.g. son/daughter/relative) is competing on a boulder and that official is judging, scoring or is in any way involved in officiating on that boulder or where there could be a conflict of interest between an official and their related party, it is the responsibility of that official to recuse or remove themselves. Failure of the official to do so could place the results of the related party competitor at risk.

The following officials have been appointed for this competition:

  • Jury President – Patrick Black

The Jury President has overall authority within the competition area and this authority extends to all aspects of the running of the competition. Although the Jury President does not normally have a judging role, he may at any time involve himself where necessary. He, in consultation with the Chief Routesetter, shall have final authority on safety. The Jury President will be assisted by a committee of independent persons familiar with competition climbing to assist on matters of discipline, technical incidents and appeals. This committee shall comprise the Jury President, the Chief Routesetter, the Chief Scorer and two Judges and will be formed at the Technical Meeting on Friday 15th April 2016. On all matters the Jury President has the final authority.

  • Chief RouteSetter (TBD)

The Chief Routesetter consults with the team of routesetters appointed by the organiser and is responsible for planning, organising, maintenance and the technical standard of the competition climbing boulders. This also includes installation of holds, protection points and other climbing or safety equipment and boulder sketches/photographs. The Chief Routesetter advises the Jury President and is a member of the Jury President’s committee.

  • Chief Scorer – Chris Naudé

The Chief Scorer is responsible for correctly scoring the event according to IFSC rules including the use of appropriate software and the timely production of results. The Chief Scorer will be responsible for training and educating individual boulder scorers. The Chief Scorer is a member of the Jury President’s committee.

  • Organiser – Delaney Carpenter

The competition organizer is responsible for safety in the competition area and in relation to all activities connected to the general running of the competition.

13. Warm-Ups

Warm-up walls and equipment will be available in the Isolation Area at CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym.

14. Personal Equipment

Each competitor shall wear the appropriate shoes and chalk-bag for the event and make use of climbing chalk only.

No cell phones or audio equipment are allowed during observation, isolation and climbing.

15. Technical incidents

It is the competitors’ responsibility to be familiar with the definitions of technical incidents should they be in a position to call for one.

16. Appeals process

An appeal concerning a competitor’s attempt must be made within 5 minutes of the publication of the official results, in writing, on an appeal form available from the event organiser, along with a fee of R100.

The Jury President shall resolve the appeal without delay with the assistance of his committee.

A decision by the Jury President shall be final.

17. Videoing

All Semi-Final and Finals boulders will be videoed if possible.

18. Anti-Doping

The SANCF is affiliated to both the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing), SASCOC (South African Sports Council and Olympic Committee) and the South African Institute for Drug Free Sport (SAIDS) in terms of which the SANCF has adopted the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) Code.

The code applies to all competitions held under the auspices of the SANCF and all competitors, coaches, trainers and officials have deemed to have agreed to comply with the code and are fully aware of the list of prohibited substances and medication and confirm they have not taken any of these substances. A list of banned substances may be downloaded from http://www.antidoping.cz/documents/WADA-Prohibited-List-2014-EN.pdf or kindly visit the WADA website at http://list.wada-ama.org/

Doping violations will be dealt in accordance with the IFSC Anti-Doping policy and Procedure.

19. Medical

Qualified Medical staff will be available on both days of the competition.

20. Accommodation

Accommodation may be arranged at your own convenience.

We’d like to recommend the following Accommodation Establishments:

21. Fee and Payment

  • R450.00 competition fee per competitor. The competitor must be an SANCF Member
  • An SANCF membership number must be presented alongside the competitor’s name when sending your competitor lists through to Western Cape Climbing.
  • Proof of Payment of the SANCF membership fee (R150.00) paid into the SANCF Bank Account must be sent through with the registration forms.
  • An SANCF membership card must be presented at the registration on the day for identification purposes.

Non-SANCF Members will not be permitted to compete at the National Boulder Series Championships.

  • The above competition fee includes medals, trophies, medical staff, venue hire as well as the costs associated with the organization of the competition. A full expense report will be submitted to the SANCF after the competition.
  • All payments are to be made via EFT into the Western Cape Climbing Bank Account below before 1st April 2016.
  • NO CASH PAYMENTS WILL BE ACCEPTED ON THE DAY!

Western Cape Climbing

First National Bank
Branch: Cavendish
Branch Number: 204209
Account Number: 62380592652
Account Type: Cheque Account

Please give your full name as a reference on the deposit slip or EFT

Kindly email the proof of payment to info@westerncapeclimbing.co.za

A voluntary donation of R50 or more for CAC (Climbers Against Cancer) can be included in your registration fee into the above bank account. This money will be allocated to the CAC fund and the total raised at the competition will be announced at the Prize Giving Event on Sunday 17th April 2016.

22. Contact details

Delaney Carpenter – WCC Competitions Organiser and Secretary

083 355 9933

info@westerncapeclimbing.co.za
Chris Naudé – WCC Vice-President

083 675 1558

Chris@westerncapeclimbing.co.za

23. Attachments

  1. Abridged Competition Rules
  1. Please refer to the attached Appendix of the 2016 National Boulder Series Championship Rules.

B.  Directions

Map to CityROCK Indoor Climbing Gym

maplarge

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: All climbing related activities are extremely dangerous and always completely at your own risk. The organizers, SANCF, the sponsors and venue owners accept no responsibility for any losses, injury or death. All participating climbers, helpers, organizers and spectators take full responsibility for themselves. There is no substitute for experience, training, common sense and a touch of caution. So you are on your own…take care!

C.  Outdoor Climbing in the Western Cape

Should any of the competitors wish to enjoy some outdoor climbing in the Cape, please contact info@westerncapeclimbing.co.za and we will organize it.

We have the following areas available for climbing:

  • Silvermine Nature Reserve (Sport)
  • The Hole (Sport)
  • The Mine (Sport)
  • Kalk Bay (Sport)
  • Echo Valley (Bouldering)
  • Topside (Bouldering)
  • Redhill (Bouldering)
  • CBD (Bouldering)
  • Montagu (2 hour drive for Sport)
  • Rocklands (3 hour drive for Bouldering)
  • Table Mountain (Trad)
  • Lion’s Head (Trad and Sport)

BOULDERING RULES   (Adapted for SANCF from IFSC rules 2014)

                                       (IFSC numbering kept for cross ref)

Contents

7.1 GENERAL. 2
7.7 COMPETITION PROCEDURE. 2
7.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE. 4
7.4         SCORING AND TIMING.. 5
7.9 CLIMBING PROCEDURE. 5
7.3 SAFETY. 6
7.5 QUOTA FOR EACH ROUND.. 6
7.6 STARTING ORDER. 6
7.8 OBSERVATION PROCEDURE. 7
7.10 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND.. 7
7.11 TECHNICAL INCIDENTS. 8
7.12           USE OF VIDEO RECORDING.. 9
7.13 APPEALS. 9

7.1 GENERAL

7.1.2    The Bouldering competition shall consist of:

  1. a)   A Semi-Final round with a course of four (4) boulders for each Category; and
  2. b)   A Final round with a course of four (4) boulders for each Category.

7.1.3    In exceptional circumstances, the Jury President may decide:

  1. a) to cancel at most one boulder within a round;
  2. b) to cancel a round of the competition, in which case the results of the remaining rounds shall determine the ranking of competitors for the competition.

7.7 COMPETITION PROCEDURE

Isolation Rules

7.7.2    Articles 7.7.3 to 7.7.6 (the “Isolation Rules”) shall apply to all rounds of Boulder competitions.

7.7.3    Once the closing time for the Isolation Zone has passed, Competitors and/or Team Officials must remain within the Isolation Zone unless otherwise instructed.

7.7.4    Note: Competitors/Team Officials or other persons authorised by the Jury President to enter the Isolation Zone may choose to leave the Isolation Zone at any time, but having left the Isolation Zone they may not then return once the closing time has passed, and must leave the Competition Area, unless specifically authorised to remain by the Jury President.

7.7.5    The Isolation Zone closing time for any round of the competition shall not be earlier than 20 minutes before the competitor first on the starting list is scheduled to commence climbing or in the case of the final round, the time scheduled for the presentation of the finalists.

Note: Competitors may view boulders visible from outside the Competition Area at any time prior to the closing time for the Isolation Zone.

7.7.6    Competitors shall have no knowledge of the boulders other than that obtained during the official observation period or that communicated to them by the Jury President or the judges. It is the sole responsibility of each competitor to fully inform themselves with respect to all instructions regarding the boulders. For the avoidance of doubt:

  1. a) Whilst in the Competition Area, competitors are not permitted to seek any information from persons outside the Competition Area, unless specifically authorised to do so by the Jury President;
  2. b) Competitors who have completed their attempt(s) on a boulder and who for any reason remain in the Competition Area must not pass any information concerning that boulder to any competitor who has not yet attempted that route/boulder.

7.7.7    Failure to comply with the Isolation Rules when in force shall result in disciplinary action in accordance with 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Preparation prior to Climbing

7.7.8    After having received an official instruction to leave the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up Area and proceed to the Call Zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person other than authorised officials.

7.7.9    On arrival in the Call Zone, each competitor shall make all final preparations for their attempt, such as putting on their climbing shoes.

7.7.10  Each competitor shall be ready to leave the Call Zone and enter the Competition Zone when instructed to do so. Any undue delay in this regard may result in the issuing of a Yellow Card. Any further delay shall result in disqualification in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Cleaning

7.7.11 The Boulder Judge, Scorer or Spotter shall clean all holds on a boulder before each competitor begins their first attempt. A competitor may also request that holds be cleaned before any attempt on the boulder.

Semi – Final

7.7.12       The Semi-Final round for each Category shall take place

on one (1) course of boulders with the competitors in one (1) Starting Group.

7.7.13 The Final round for each Category shall take place on one (1) course of boulders with the competitors in one (1) Starting Group.

7.7.14  In the Semi-Final rounds, each competitor participating in the round:

  1. a) Shall attempt each boulder of the relevant course in the prescribed order, with a fixed time period (the “Rotation Period”) of five (5) minutes for each boulder; However, if a competitor begins an attempt prior to the end of the climbing period, they shall be allowed to finish that attempt.
  2. b) Shall have a resting period equal to the Rotation Period in between their attempts on each successive boulder. At the end of each Rotation Period, the competitors that are climbing shall stop climbing and enter a designated resting area. This area shall not allow observation of any boulder. The competitors who have finished their resting period shall move on to their next boulder.

Final

7.7.15 The Final round shall take place on one (1) course of boulders for each Category with the competitors in one (1) Starting Group.

7.7.16 The Final round shall be preceded by a presentation of the competitors eligible to participate in the round.

7.7.17       For each Category:

  1. a) Each boulder in the Final round shall be attempted by all competitors in the order set out in Article 7.6.3.
  2. b) Once a competitor has finished their attempts, they shall return to a separate isolation area and the next competitor shall start their climbing period immediately;
  3. c) Once all competitors have completed their attempts, the competitors shall move on to the next boulder as an individual in a Category;

7.7.18 The climbing period during the Final round shall be four (4) minutes for each competitor. However, if a competitor begins an attempt prior to the end of the climbing period, they shall be allowed to finish that attempt.

Tie-Break boulder

7.7.19 In the circumstances described in Article 7.10.4a), tied competitors shall make attempt a “Tie-Break” boulder:

  1. a) The starting order for attempts shall be the same as that for the Final round
  2. b) The performance of each competitor shall be judged in accordance with Articles 6.4.2 to 6.4.5 and 6.10.1.
  3. c) If two or more competitors remain tied for first place after having attempted this “Tie-Break” boulder, then these competitors may make further attempts on the boulder (up to a maximum of six attempts in total).
  4. d) If a tie still exists after six (6) attempts, then the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking.

7.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE

7.2.5    Each boulder shall have a clearly marked start which shall consist of:

  1. a) Marked handhold(s) for both hands; and
  2. b) Marked foothold(s) for both feet (optional).
  3. c) The use of black tape for any demarcations or area of the wall that is not permitted.
  4. d) In exceptional circumstances, the starting holds may be labelled left and right to denote a specific required starting position.

7.2.6    Each boulder shall have a clearly marked finish which shall be either:

  1. a) A designated finishing hold; or
  2. b) A defined standing position on top of the boulder or end point.

7.2.7    Each boulder shall have a clearly marked “Bonus Hold”. The positioning of this hold should aid the separation of competitors with markedly different performance and will be at the Route-Setter’s discretion.

7.2.8    The markings used in relation to Articles 7.2.5, 7.2.6 and 7.2.7 shall be the same for the entire duration of a competition. The colours used to mark the starting position and the finishing holds shall be the same and white tape shall be used for the bonus holds. Both colours shall be different from the colour used for demarcations in accordance with Article 7.9.5b, i.e. black tape.

An example of these markings shall be installed within the Isolation Zone.

7.4      SCORING AND TIMING

7.4.1         The jury for each boulder shall be:

  1. a) In respect of the Semi-Final rounds, a minimum of one (1)Boulder Judge
  2. b) In respect of the Final round, a Boulder Judge and either the SANCF Judge or the Jury President.

Scoring

7.4.2    On each boulder, a bonus point will be awarded if the competitor controls the Bonus Hold, marked as described in Article 7.2.8. The bonus point will be awarded also where a competitor successfully completes the boulder without having controlled the Bonus Hold. The Bonus Hold shall be considered as “controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position.

7.4.3         For each competitor attempting a boulder, the Boulder Judge will record:

  1. a) The number of attempts required by that competitor to gain a bonus point in accordance with Article 7.4.2; and
  2. b) The number of attempts required by that competitor to successfully complete the boulder in accordance with Article 7.9.1.

7.4.4         For the purposes of scoring, an attempt will be counted each time a competitor:

  1. a) Starts the boulder in accordance with Article 7.9.1;
  2. b) Touches, with hands or feet, holds other than the starting holds;
  3. c) Adds any “tick marks”.

Timing

7.4.5    No timing system shall be used in each round however, timekeepers will do manual timing on their devices and will notify climbing time remaining for each competitor’s attempts.

7.4.6    The beginning (and the end) of every Rotation Period in the Semi-Final and Final rounds shall be announced by a loud and clear signal. When one minute remains of the Rotation Period, this will be announced by a different signal or announced by the Master of Ceremonies.

7.9 CLIMBING PROCEDURE

The Start

7.9.1    An attempt shall be deemed to have started when every part of the competitor’s body has left the ground.

7.9.2    Having left the ground, competitors must achieve the starting position marked in accordance with Article 7.2.5 before making any other climbing movement:

7.9.3    If a competitor cannot reach the starting holds from the ground, they shall be permitted to start the boulder by jumping for the starting holds.

Completion of Attempt

7.9.4    An attempt on a boulder shall be considered successful when the Boulder Judge has announced “OK”, having determined that the competitor has either:

  1. a) Controlled the marked finishing hold of the Boulder with both hands; or
  2. b) Where the top of the boulder is indicated as set out in Article 7.2.6b), in each case within any fixed time period defined for the competitor’s attempts.

7.9.5    An attempt on a boulder shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor fails to control with both hands the marked finishing hold or, if relevant, achieve a standing position on top of the boulder; or the competitor:

  1. a) Fails to start the boulder in accordance with Articles 7.9.1 to 7.9.3;
  2. b) Uses any part of the wall, holds or features demarcated using continuous and clearly identifiable black tape (or if another colour is required to be used, as specified by the Jury President in a technical briefing to competitors);
  3. c) Uses with their hands any holes provided but not used for the placement of bolt-on holds;
  4. d) Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing;
  5. e) Touches the ground with any part of the body; or
  6. f) If a fixed climbing period has been defined, fails to complete their attempt                          before the end of that period;

7.9.6 In case of infractions related to 7.9.5a) to f), the Boulder Judge shall instruct the competitor to stop climbing.

7.3 SAFETY

Personal Equipment

7.3.3    Competitors are not permitted to carry or use any video recording equipment during observation, isolation or whilst climbing.

7.5 QUOTA FOR EACH ROUND

7.5.1    The quota of competitors qualifying for the Final round shall be six (6) competitors.

7.5.3    The quota for Final round shall be filled with the highest ranked competitors from the previous round. If the quota is exceeded as a result of tied competitors, all tied competitors shall qualify for the next round of the competition.

7.6 STARTING ORDER

Semi -Final and Final

7.6.2 The starting order for the Semi Final round within each category shall be randomly selected

7.6.3    The starting order for the Final round shall be the reverse of the ranking order from the previous round, i.e. the highest ranked competitor shall start last. In the case of tied competitors from a previous round, the starting order between them shall be as in the Semi Final round.

7.8 OBSERVATION PROCEDURE

7.8.1    Team Officials shall not be permitted to accompany the competitors during the observation period. While in the observation area, all competitors remain under the Isolation Rules. Competitors shall remain within the designated observation zone during the observation. They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture. They may seek clarification only from the Jury President, the SANCF Judge or the Boulder Judge assigned to the boulder.

7.8.2    During the observation period, competitors are allowed to touch only the marked starting holds, without leaving the ground with both their feet. No recording equipment shall be permitted.

Semi -Final

7.8.3    A collective observation period of two (2) minutes per boulder shall be held immediately prior to the commencement of the Semi-Final round.

Final

7.8.4    A collective observation period of two (2) minutes per boulder shall be held immediately prior to the commencement of the Final round.

7.10 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

General

7.10.1 After each round of the competition, each competitor participating in that round shall be ranked within their Starting Group/Category using the following criteria:

  1. a) First, in descending order, the number of successfully completed boulders (“TOPS”) in the current round;
  2. b) Second, in ascending order, the total number of attempts to complete these boulders;
  3. c) Third, In descending order, the total number of bonus points gained by the competitor in the current round;
  4. d) Fourth, in ascending order, the total number of attempts to achieve these bonus points.

Example:

Rank Tops T-Attempts Bonus Points B-Attempts

1 4 4 5 7
2 4 5 5 6
3 4 5 4 5
4 3 3 5 5

7.10.2 If a competitor eligible to participate in a round fails to start:

  1. a) In the Semi-Final round, they shall not be ranked;
  2. b) In any other round, they shall be ranked last in that round.

7.10.3 If any competitors are tied following the ranking calculation of Articles 7.10.1 and 7.10.2, then the ranking of these competitors from the preceding round shall be used to break the tie (“countback”). Tied competitors shall be ranked relative to each other in ascending order of their ranking from the preceding round.

Note: No countback to the results of the Qualification round shall be made where competitors were separated into two Starting Groups for the Semi Final round.

7.10.4   If following the countback process of Article 7.10.3 any competitors remain tied:

  1. a) If such tie relates to competitors ranked equal 1st following the Final round, the relative ranking of these competitors will be determined as set out in Article 7.7.18; or
  2. b) If such tie relates to any other competitors, the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking.

7.11 TECHNICAL INCIDENTS

7.11.1 A Technical Incident is defined as any occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a competitor, which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor.

 

7.11.2 The SANCF Judge, if necessary in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter shall make the confirmation or non-confirmation of a Technical Incident.

 

Procedure following a Technical Incident

7.11.3 The first attempt made by the competitor who has suffered a Technical Incident, on the same boulder, after the attempt in which the Technical Incident occurred shall be deemed a continuation of that attempt.

 

7.11.4 When the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident resumes their attempts after repairing or fixing, the competitor shall be allowed the time remaining at the moment when the Technical Incident occurred.

 

7.11.5  If a confirmed Technical Incidents occurs during the Semi-Final rounds:

  1. a) If the Technical Incident can be repaired or fixed before the end of the current Rotation Period, the competitor involved will be offered the opportunity to continue with their attempts:
  2. i) If the competitor chooses to continue, then the Technical Incident is finished and no further appeals shall be allowed.
  3. ii) If the competitor chooses not to continue, then the competitor will resume their attempts in a Rotation Period to be decided by the Jury President.
  4. b) If the Technical Incident cannot be repaired or fixed before the end of the current Rotation Period, then at the end of the Rotation Period:
  5. i) The SANCF Judge will suspend the round for the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident and all competitors on the preceding boulders; and
  6. ii) For all the other competitors, the round shall continue.

iii) Once the Technical Incident has been repaired or fixed, the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident shall resume their attempts. Any other competitors whose round was suspended shall restart at the first full Rotation Period afterward.

 

7.11.6 If a confirmed Technical Incident occurs during the Final round, the competitor suffering the Technical Incident shall return to separate isolation in the Transit Zone and await the repair. When the Technical Incident has been repaired or fixed, the affected competitor shall re-commence their attempts.

 

7.12   USE OF VIDEO RECORDING

Where possible, video recordings will be made at all national competitions. This may be affected by budget constraints and at this stage, although desirable may not be possible.

7.12.1       Official Video Recordings shall be made of all competitors’ attempts.

7.12.5 Judging decisions (including Appeals)

Shall consider any video recordings made available at the time.

7.12.6 At the end of each round, copies of any available Official Video Recordings shall be provided to the Jury President if requested.

7.13 APPEALS

7.13.1 All verbal and written appeals and official responses to appeals shall be made in English and

  1. a) in relation to appeals under Article 7.13.3, only in written form, signed by the relevant team officials;
  2. b) in relation to appeals under Article 7.13.4, in verbal or written form by the competitor concerned or by a team official from the relevant team;
  3. c) in relation to appeals under Article 7.13.5, only in written form signed by a team official from the relevant team; or only where no such person is registered for the competition, by the relevant competitor.

7.13.2 Excluding appeals made under Articles 7.13.3 and 7.13.4, an appeal shall only be accepted if accompanied by the official appeals fee of R100.00 per Appeal. The appeals fee payable shall be in accordance with the list of fees published annually by the SANCF. If an appeal is upheld, the appeals fee shall be returned. If an appeal is rejected, the appeals fee shall not be returned.

Safety Appeals

7.13.3 A Safety Appeal may be submitted if the coaches from at least three different clubs are of the opinion that safety is seriously jeopardized. The Jury President shall consider the matter and, if applicable, take the necessary actions. A Safety Appeal fee of R100.00 is due per Safety Appeal.

Appeals Process

7.13.4 An appeal concerning the judgement of a competitor’s attempt must be made immediately and:

  1. a) In the case of the Semi-Final rounds, within the current or next following rotation period;
  2. b) In the case of the Final round, before the start of the following competitor’s attempts, and where such an appeal is made the affected competitor shall, if necessary, be treated as though a Technical Incident had occurred and Articles 7.11.5(a) and 7.11.6 shall apply. In the case of the Final round, any such appeal must be resolved (and any action required as a consequence completed) prior to the competitors moving on to the next boulder.

7.13.5 Any appeal against the ranking of a competitor must be submitted to the Jury President in writing:

  1. a) In respect of any appeal concerning the Semi-Final round, within thirty (30) minutes of the publication of all Official Results for that round; and
  2. b) In respect of any appeal concerning the Final round, immediately following the publication of a result for the relevant competitor.

7.13.6  On receipt of an appeal, the Jury President shall (or, if the Jury President was involved in the original decision, the SANCF Delegate shall) act immediately to address the appeal.

If the appeal concerns the Official Results, the Jury President will ensure that an announcement is made that the Official Results are “Under Appeal”, noting which results are the subject of the appeal

7.13.7 The Jury President (or where relevant, the SANCF Delegate) shall resolve any appeal without delay or prejudice to the competition timetable and shall use all personnel and facilities at their disposal to achieve this goal.

7.13.8  If the available evidence in relation to an appeal is inconclusive, then the original decision shall stand and the appeal fee shall be returned. In the case of written appeals, the results of the appeal shall be made in writing and handed by the Jury President to the person who officially lodged the appeal.

Consequences of Appeals

7.13.9 A decision of the Appeals Jury shall be final and not subject to further appeal.

7.13.10     An appeal in relation to the consequences of a decision made by the Appeals Jury (an “Original Decision”) must be made:

  1. a) In respect of appeals concerning the Semi-Final rounds, within thirty (30) minutes after the publication of the Original Decision; or
  2. b) In respect of appeals concerning the Final round, fifteen (15) minutes after publication of the Original Decision.
  3. c) No appeal in relation to the consequences of an Original Decision can be made outside the above period.

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