Brian Weaver – Fear and Loathing, Magaliesberg

Brian Weaver climbs Fear and Loathing, a 7c+ trad line opened by Alex Bester in 2014.  The line is in the Magaliesberg in South Africa at a crag called Mhlabatini.

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19 Responses to Brian Weaver – Fear and Loathing, Magaliesberg

  1. Logic Aug 17, 2016 at 9:25 pm #

    This one leaves me ambivalent, I know it is impressive climbing, but it looks so mediocre and boring?Sorry Brian, all that should be said is well done on the send.

    • Justin Lawson Aug 18, 2016 at 8:26 am #

      Perhaps, but Brian has put out quite a bit of climbing content… can’t be 100% all the time 😉

    • Herman Aug 18, 2016 at 10:36 am #

      I liked it. Well done Brian.

  2. Brenda Aug 18, 2016 at 9:24 am #

    Nice one, Brian!

  3. Jean Aug 18, 2016 at 1:39 pm #

    Im so glad my hero has returned to this forum! Only one thing amiss… your perfectly honed and ripped torso. Please Brain, more shirtless ascents!

  4. Warren Gans Aug 18, 2016 at 4:51 pm #

    Its just so great that you guys get recognition for sub 30/8a repeats up country: down here you have to open a >30 or solo a similar grade to even get thought of! Well done Brian, looking forward to seeing further progression in the Kloofs.

    • Ebert Nel Aug 19, 2016 at 1:15 pm #

      climbing hard on trad is easy when the grades are soft and you have solid gear in horizontals every 3m #westerncape. As for you, you’ll never trad 29 in the magaliesberg, neither will most of your province counterparts, its just that in the magalies you require balls because the gear isnt bomber, and its difficult to have those with bomber horizontals every few meters….. As for brian, he was the first person to do that line placing gear. Dont see someone from down south coming to try our hardest lines in our berg:P We coming for your lines though warren, bottom up placing all the way #atomicsky

  5. Charles Edelstein Aug 18, 2016 at 7:26 pm #

    I am a fan of all climbing but you should read Pete Robbins account of the MCSA/BMC exchange and indeed Brian you really must come join us next time on the exchange. You will have fun and your enthusiasm will benefit us all.

    Pete makes the point that “head pointing” is another genre of climbing altogether and should not be confused with trad climbing. At least that is what I infer from his statements.

    The cover photo shows Brian with two sport draws hanging off his harness; where is the rack of nuts, the No3 Camelot (for ballast of course) and so on?

    Climbing anything that hard has its merits but to me trad climbing is taking a rack, reading the RD and doing it. Very few people in the world on-sight 7c= on-sight with a standard trad rack with RD in hand. In fact trad climbing is not graded with the french system anywhere else except in France and a few other European countries

    • Warren Gans Aug 19, 2016 at 9:04 am #

      I happen to agree with much of what Charles said above, however that doesn’t take away from Brian’s ascent of Fear and Loathing: this was a head point, and I strongly suspect that most routes of these sorts of grades get climbed cleanly in this manner. Brian isn’t claiming to have onsighted/flashed the route as we see him falling off it, and I happen to agree with the strategy of only taking what you need on a send attempt

      Trad climbing needs head pointing just as much as sport climbing needs redpointing, and while I agree that working a trad route to death before attempting to send it cleanly does take away from the adventure of the line, that isn’t always the point of the exercise, but rather to simply climb and enjoy the line.

      Snort, I do think there is a place for a “Rock and Road: Trad Trippin” as it might satisfy some of your ideals, and certainly I would love to be a part of it!

    • Logic Aug 19, 2016 at 10:04 am #

      Charles,

      You put it that headpointing, working a route to optimise the sequence and gear placement in order to send said route, is not trad climbing.
      I think you are confusing disciplines and styles within disciplines. Headpointing IS trad climbing, it is just a different style preference as opposed to the example you presented earlier.

  6. Chris F Aug 19, 2016 at 11:10 am #

    Actually quite a few cutting edge trad ascents in the UK have a sport climbing grade reported along with the proposed trad grade.

    I think Warren is right that headpointing has its place on new routes as long as the ascentionist is honest about their approach. It’s up to repeaters to try and improve the “purity” of the ascent.

  7. Justin Lawson Aug 19, 2016 at 11:35 am #

    Well done Brian, I take it you’re having fun!? And by “can’t be 100% all the time” I mean you can’t keep all the people happy, all the time 🙂
    Belated birthday wishes for yesterday as well.

    On a somewhat different level:
    Alexander Megos managed to FLASH (2 days after doing the FA of “Fightclub”) the @sonnietrotter classic trad route “The Path” 5.14R at Lake Louise!
    “40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!”

    Alexander Megos Flashes The Path

  8. Hector Aug 19, 2016 at 1:12 pm #

    Well done Brian! Cool send and video. Fear and Loathing looks excellent.
    That Megos flash is absolutely mind-bending!

  9. Chris F Aug 19, 2016 at 5:05 pm #

    I assume “group up” should be “ground up”?

  10. jean ehlers Aug 19, 2016 at 6:51 pm #

    Ebert, when are you actually going to put all your trash talk into action? Seems all you are capable of is barking from the sidelines like irritating little lap dog. Hou bietjie jou bek man, jy raas.

    • Logic Aug 19, 2016 at 7:46 pm #

      I highly doubt whether Ebert will ever deliver on any of his promises/threats he so frequently risks on this site. I for one have very little confidence in him. Sorry Ebert.

  11. Snort Aug 19, 2016 at 8:40 pm #

    Warren you seem to have not read Pete’s article. I quote him regarding trad: “It’s not about climbing hard; sport and bouldering do that better. It’s not about being fast and efficient, because then it becomes calculated and arbitrary — as does the weird sub-sport of head-pointing, which is not trad climbing. It’s not primarily about being in beautiful places, because we sometimes climb in Lancashire.”

    http://dmmclimbing.com/blog/south-africa-trad-climbing-renaissance/

  12. mokganjetsi (Willem B) Aug 20, 2016 at 7:56 am #

    everybody has their view on stuff and that’s cool; either way F&L looks like a very cool climb….. not that i’ll ever get up there. but even at my mediocre grades there is a distinct difference in the feel to trad (which is whenever you’re placing gear imho) on a single pitch route that you’ve worked and walking up to a 8-pitch line onsighting (more so near your limit). i have been more scared / exhilarated on big lines 5 grades below my hardest trad route. but ultimately the experience is for me & my buddies.

    ebert, i dare you to repeat James Pearson’s Bonanno Pisano at wolfberg. a bottle of whatever your drink is up for grabs.
    http://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/james-pearson-talks-about-bonanno-pisano.html

  13. Jan Jan Aug 20, 2016 at 1:03 pm #

    Brian is a down to earth climber documenting his experiences and showing everybody what he does, opening himself up to criticism in this way but that has not stoped him from sharing his experience with the vast majority of climbers in our country. Brian is a asset to South African climbing!

    I’m looking forward to seeing more of Brian’s climbing and not seeing forward to everyone pissing on each other’s fires in order to make theirs burn brighter.

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