New Line at Truitjieskraal

Malcolm Gowans opened a route recently at Truitjieskraal on the King Cobra Prow.

I’ve had my eye on for some time on the King Cobra prow.  It’s not your typical sport route in that the line is indirect.  It follows the line of least resistance, snaking its way up an impressive wall and goes at an accessible grade 19/20.

The climbing in the first half is very “trady” and the upper half is fun, exposed face climbing.  I’ve given Snakes & Ladders *** but would like to hear what other think of it.

Cobra Prow, Cederberg


6 Responses to New Line at Truitjieskraal

  1. Dave Jul 5, 2017 at 12:46 pm #

    That’s Awesome! Thanks very much to Malcolm for bolting this route.

  2. Ryan Jul 10, 2017 at 9:20 am #

    Length of climb so we know what length of rope to use? Thanks, looks awesome!

  3. Robert Breyer Oct 9, 2017 at 6:37 am #

    great route. ***** stars. i give it a 20 being sustained and exposed. route wanders and is 35m long, the straight top rope is almost 25m, you will need exactly 60m of rope to bring you down. route can be tradded as well – excellent gear everywhere.

  4. Justin Lawson Oct 9, 2017 at 8:52 am #

    I also got to have a go this weekend. What an awesome, fun route 🙂 Well done Malcolm and thanks for putting it together 🙂
    It’s nicely bolted – love the top anchors.

    RE: length: I unclipped the 5th or 6th bolt (the bolt furtherest right) before moving left and had a good few meters of rope left over.
    Onsight grade more along the lines of 20 I reckon.

  5. Malcolm Oct 12, 2017 at 9:46 am #

    I’m glad to hear there has been so much fun had on that route. 🙂 Makes it all worth while!

    A few points of intrest:
    I recommend taking a few alpine draws with for bolts 5 & 6. this will avoid rope drag and having to unclip as Justin did. We’re not so as brave as Justin.
    You need a 60m rope as Robert recomends.

    Lastly, the route name has changed to BOA (Bold, our there & Adventerous)

  6. Oliver Williams Sep 3, 2018 at 10:50 am #

    Hi Mally,

    Well done on the new route and thanks! Charlie and I did it yesterday. I agree with your 3* rating and the grading. The face climbing is superb. Loved that traverse! The first section is a bit awkward which is where I think it loses a star, but that’s the only way up at the grade. Although if you do the initial traverse properly (which I didn’t – went too high and bunched up) it flows quite well.

    But it’s great to have an easier route on this famous prow, and provides and great warm up for King Cobra. I prefer the Snakes and Ladders route name by the way 🙂 I think somebody might have taken one of the leaver biners because there was only one.

Leave a Comment/Reply/Review