Alexander Megos sends ‘A Life in Orange’ at Boven

Alexander Megos has sent ‘A Life in Orange’ at the Superbowl in Waterval Boven.  The route was bolted by Andrew Pedley and the grade was thought to be about 34/35.  Yesterday Alex sent the route and thought the grade to be 35/8c+.  This makes the route South Africa’s second 35/8c+ route (after Mazawattee, which was opened by Adam Ondra in 2009).

The route is described in the Waterval Boven Guide Book as “Immaculate line up the cleanest (blankest!) wall at Boven, a few metres left of Snapdragon. Reach will help.”  The route was bolted by Andrew Pedley in 2011 (who might be making a habit of bolting projects for foreigners 😉

Alex had this to say about the route on Facebook:
“WOW! Yesterday was our first day here in #waterfallboven and the rock, landscape and climbing is absolutely mind-blowing! Very rare to find that amazing quality in every grade from super easy to hard.
Pic of me climbing the classic “Rodan” 33 (8b+) at the God No! Wall on my second try.
Psyched for more!

And there is more for Alex at Boven 🙂

Above and Beyond Project. The ridiculous concept through the roof above Freak On. Bolted by Mattt Bush in 2011.

Mind Games Project. Fully bolted. On the Time Bomb block at the Triple Tier Crags. A hard line in a hard position! Bolted by Wes Black and Alex Bester. MCSA bolts.

ACRA Wall 9a project. At the ACRA wall. Right of ‘Something Esoteric’ is a wall with just enough slopers and crimps to be possible, at 9a or harder. Only top anchors in.

Among others, Alex also bagged Rodan (33/8b+) on his second go, falling off the tricky crux.

Alex is sponsored by: @redbulladventure @patagonia_climb @dmm_wales @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @vertical.life.climbing @frictionlabs
#carrotsforpower

Alexander Megos

Alexander Megos on ‘A Life in Orange’ (35/8c+) at Waterval Boven. Photo by Ken Etzel

 

Alexander Megos Waterval Boven

Alexander Megos on ‘Rodan’ (33/8b+) at Waterval Boven. Photo by Gustav Janse van Rensburg

 

Alexander Megos Waterval Boven

Alexander Megos on ‘Rodan’ (33/8b+) at Waterval Boven. Photo by Ken Etzel

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3 Responses to Alexander Megos sends ‘A Life in Orange’ at Boven

  1. Don Quixote Aug 8, 2017 at 2:22 pm #

    Wow, impressive! Seeing as the world’s most famous overgrader (what is the opposite of sandbagger?) opened the other 35, maybe this is SA’s new hardest route.

    • Chris Aug 9, 2017 at 3:54 pm #

      Dan,

      I’m curious. Are you saying Adam over-grades simply because he has suggested 9b+ a few times, or are you saying he over-grades because he has up-graded some climb(s) you’ve done yourself?

      Awesome pictures of Alex! I wish I could have been there to see him crush.

      Chris

  2. Justin Lawson Aug 11, 2017 at 1:38 pm #

    RE: Mazawattee overgrading.
    Adam did the route on his 2nd go (in far from ideal conditions and at towards the end of his ZA trip, ok he did go onto Rocklands and crank hard!).

    What I’m getting at is that he may not have had the opportunity to learn the best way to climb the route.
    I remember thinking ‘demonic’ when he sent the route – it was amazing to watch!

    That said, no one who has repeated the route has found it to be soft. There are also some hardmen and women out there who have not been able to send.

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