Angy Eiter Becomes First Woman to Climb 38

Austrian climber Angy Eiter broke new ground again as the first woman to climb 38/9b/5.15b.  Only two people have climbed at grades harder than 5.15b—Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma.

On October 22, the 31-year-old redpointed La Planta de Shiva (9b/5.15b) in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. The route, which Ondra established in 2011, links a pitch 5.14b into a steep and crimpy extension to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece that’s only been climbed by Ondra, on the first ascent, and Jakob Schubert, who repeated the route last year.

“I didn’t really focus on a route in the 9b [5.15b] range,” Eiter tells Rock and Ice. “However, the occasion came spontaneously.”

Eiter’s inspiration to attempt the route arrived when she tried and completed the easier first pitch in October last year. “On the top I realized the multiple crimps of the second pitch,” Eiter says. “My husband Bernie encouraged me to check it out.” She tried the upper section twice and managed to work out all of the moves, but says that on some parts she wasn’t able to link more than two or three moves together.

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