Oriane Bertone (12 yrs) in Golden Shadow, 8B+, Rocklands

Oriane Bertone, 12 years old, just sent Golden Shadow (8B+) in Rocklands !

At 12 years old Oriane Bertone has just sent her first 8B+ Boulder problem – Golden Shadow at Rocklands.   Ashima Shiraishi achieved this grade at 13 years.

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7 Responses to Oriane Bertone (12 yrs) in Golden Shadow, 8B+, Rocklands

  1. Steve Jan 25, 2018 at 10:51 am #

    Strong kid no doubt, but the bathang and dab that uses the boulder on the right does not equal 8B+

  2. Logic Jan 25, 2018 at 4:04 pm #

    Bit jelly, ‘ey Steve

    • Kelly Jan 31, 2018 at 12:41 pm #

      She skipped pretty much the whole boulder and used a hold all the way to the right that is not used by any of the other people who have climbed it.

      Still hard for sure, but not Golden Shadow, the boulder that is currently graded 8B+

      Try focus on the facts, old Logic

      • Phil Jones Jan 31, 2018 at 2:03 pm #

        I think you’ll find that the majority of ascents these days are done with the same (or very similar) beta to what she used, hence the downgrade to 8B. You just have to make sure that you are not foot camming the boulder behind, which is difficult, but definitely possible.

        So, still Golden Shadow, just not with the original beta.

      • Pauline Feb 1, 2018 at 7:59 pm #

        Here the beta Kelly : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2my-C8W2D0

        • Kelly Feb 5, 2018 at 5:23 pm #

          Yeah no, that’s also the easier version, not the oOG version – graded 8B+/8C by the man himself

          Here’s the actual beta with no foot camming the boulder on the right.

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x4qtJSXDM8

  3. Pauline Jan 27, 2018 at 4:32 am #

    In this media world there are three categories of people. Those who do the performances. Those who discuss the performance of others. Those who film performance and allow the discussion. In this case there is a climber who did the performance. Spectators who discuss it in a public blog. And there is a kid, filming one of the attempts of (and doing encouragements to) his sister because his dad was busy to secure climber under the boulder. So we have to be careful when we publicly judge on the basis of traces (photos, videos or montage of videos). Here it should not be said that Oriane did not do 8B + or “did not equal 8B +”. It must be said that, IN THE FILMED ATTEMPT which is discussed, one can think (or it seems) that the performance is not good or is questionable. In climbing, the climber and those who saw what he did, validate the performance. Those who see movies or video montages or photos are spectators and not judges. What eventually spectators can ask to actors (or filmmakers), is that there is a better attempt of this performance (or if there are better films of it).

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