20 year old Italian climber Stefano Carnati sends the classic 9a ‘Action Directe’ in Frankenjura. The route was first climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991.
While being generally recognized as the world’s first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI, which converts to a grade between 8c+ and 9a. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets, and a dynamic start into a two finger pocket.Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for the Frankenjura area.