Chad Kellogg has his ‘Everest Climbing Algorithm’, Ueli Steck has been warming up around the Khumbu valley and Ecuadorian Patricio Tisalema will try to climb Everest in one day (alpine style) from the north side.
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Everest Too Dangerous!
In one of the driest seasons on record, the Lhotse and Nuptse faces of Everest are unleashing a torrent of rockfall, between two and 10 rocks per minute.
Kalymnos Primer
Ahh… back from vacation. Good thing about vacations–no matter how lovely–is that they eventually end, and you return home to your own comfortable bed, your faithful dog, your routine. Now that I’ve been home for a day or two, I had some time to reflect on the trip.
White Water Kayaking – Consumed
Whitewater kayaker Hendrik Coetzee had decided to call it a career after a decade of first descents on the wildest rivers in Africa. The river’s most feared predator had a different ending in store.
Ueli Steck Interview: “If I don’t take myself out of this game – I will die”
The powerful Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck is acclimatizing for an ascent of Everest’s Southeast Ridge without supplemental oxygen, according to a World Radio Switzerland podcast. In a basecamp interview three days ago, Steck says that “If I don’t take myself out of the game, I will die sooner rather than later.”
Ten Top Tips For Staying Alive
In this article UKC Chief Editor Jack Geldard takes a lighthearted look at a deadly serious topic – staying alive whilst climbing – and gives us ten things to think about whilst we’re out at the crag.
Ocearch and the Kogel Baai attack – Searching for answers, finding few
Another attack confirmed. This time fatal and at a beach I know and love so well. A great guy, a promising talent, a life cut short.
A Monsterous Send
I finished bolting the original idea for the Beast in Boven. It’s gonna be hard. I’m very close to the send. It’ll also go on gear. Should be 32/33 (8b/+). It’s an amazing climb.
Nepals Over Regulated permit system
Ueli Steck and Freddie Wilkinson reveal how Nepal’s permitting system is holding climbers back in the Khumbu
The Rules For Dating A Dirtbag
“Well, Mom, I had this weird feeling about meeting women and telling them I live in a van full of climbing gear, but then I realized I really only am interested in women who could be interested in a guy who lives in a van full of climbing gear.
Monkey See, Monkey Do
He’s also been soloing quite a few hard routes including Switchbitch and Shad
Teenager nicknamed ‘Japanese Spider-Man’ – the best free-climber in the world
Toru Nakajima, 17, is midway through his fearless quest to tackle the world’s most difficult climbs.
Wide Eyes, High Times and Hard Times; a Story of Climbing with Mark Grundon : Part 1
This story was written in 2005, and a much shorter version was published in the Mountain Gazette. It was heavily revised in 2012 for Mehall’s upcoming book, Climbing Out of Bed.
Black Eagle Project Roodekrans
The Black Eagle is a fairly common resident and one of the most thoroughly researched eagles in SouthernBlack Eagle Flying in Roodekrans South Africa Africa. This magnificent species gets its scientific name from the 18th century naturalist Jules Verreaux, hence “Aquila verreauxii”.
Piolets D’Or 2012
The jury, of the 2012 Piolets d’Or, presided over by Michael Kennedy, has come together to deliberate on the six expeditions nominated for the 20th edition of the Piolets d’Or.
An Interview with Adam Ondra
One of the most compelling climbers today in this regard is Adam Ondra. While clearly an athlete of the highest calibre, he has also clearly tapped into mental and psychological resources that have enabled an incredibly concentrated series of ascents in the 5.14c and up range in the past few years as well as notable success in the much more specialized game of bouldering. I have written about Adam in the past but never met him or contacted him before.
Lama and Ortner Climb 1000m Slovenian North Face
On February 25, David Lama and Peter Ortner established a new route on the north face of Loska Stena, a circa 1000m high, five kilometer wide rock wall in Slovenia’s Julian Alps. Lama and Ortner, fresh from their first free climb of the Compressor Route, spent three days establishing the new, thirteen-pitch route, the Lama-Ortner (7 M6, 1300m).
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Bolt issue on Kalymnos
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Space Race – a new route on Table Mountain
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New Cederberg Hiking map – Names update
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Alien vs. Predator. a.k.a. a review of the new BD X4 Cams
- Brian sending ‘Just Behrly’
