Archive | News

New Gear – First Ascent Cliffhanger Shorts

Climbing the grades is both a mental and physical challenge. When you look and feel the part, the battle is half won…

Video: Pinotage

You will find this high boulder problem in the 8 Day Rain Sector.

KZN – New Routes – Truckyard update

Simon Lowe has created an RD for the new routes at the Truckyard at Shongweni Dam.

Tags:

Boulder World Cup Finals Munich 2010: Boulder 1 and 2

Before the competition, the WC was still open, and this was still the case in the final. In theory at least.

Tags:

Two New North American World Cups in 2011

A Lead Climbing World Cup will take place in the United States for the first time in about two decades in the fall of 2011, according to a provisional schedule of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).

Hepatitis/HIV risk for climbers?

A recent UIAA medical study reports that climbers may be at an increased risk of contracting Hepatitis and HIV.

Another 9a by Pirmin Bertle

Pirmin Bertle has escaped the summer temps and headed into the mountains. To Rawyl in the Swiss Valais Alps to be exact. Must be great to live in a country where you can do that. There, he repeated Cabane au Canada for its 2nd ascent and his second 9a.

Lama Speaks Out on Compressor Debacle

Over the last few months my sponsor Red Bull and I have been confronted with heavy criticism. Precisely it dealt with the film production from my project on Cerro Torre and the leaving of material on the mountain.

Tags:

The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto

From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.

Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr

The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainement up the massive granite Blamann tower. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.

Cassin Route, Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses

The details of an immortal route: the Cassin route up the Walker Super on the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) introduced by Mountain Guide Enrico Bonino who climbed the route last week with an (extremely strong) client, Max Lucco.

Two Deaths In Grand Teton National Park

Two deaths and more than a dozen injuries marked the past few days in Grand Teton National Park. On Tuesday, University of Michigan student Jillian Drow, 21, fell while descending the 12,804-foot Middle Teton.

Elbrus down, six to go…

Twice we crashed in soft snow and had to walk back up again. The 3rd time there was a hint of a breeze and we gunned it. Everything happened so fast but eventually we were airborne! It was wild! Pierre says it was by far the scariest takeoff he’d ever done

Tags:

Jesse Bonin Boulders V14 in the Rocklands

My trip to Rocklands is going amazing so far. I’m only half way through and already I’ve had the time of my life.

Dramatic Rescue and Tragedy on Grand Teton

Grand Teton National Park was the site of a dramatic rescue on Wednesday as heavy thunderstorms besieged 17 climbers on the Grand Teton (13,770′). Over the course of the eight-hour rescue, helicopters and professional guides aided 16 climbers off the peak but were unable to locate a missing climber.

Mountain mugging alert

A safety action group has declared parts of Table Mountain “no-go zones” after muggers, brandishing broken bottles and knives, attacked hikers and residents in at least 10 incidents since May.

Tags:

STASA GEJO (12) FIRST 8b

Serbian climber Stasa Gejo (12 years old) sent her first 8b, Future Land in Jelasnica

Bulgarian alpinist dies on K2

K2 is regarded as one of the most dangerous and difficult mountains in the world to climb. For every four people who have reached the summit, one has died trying.

Tags:

GRIGRI 2 – Assisted braking belay device

20 years after the original assisted braking belay device, Petzl is proud to introduce the GRIGRI 2.
Available in 2011.

Tags:

2010 Arco RockMaster Champions and Legends Winners

This weekend saw competition greats gathering in Arco, Italy, for the RockMaster 2010, one of the most prestigious competitions in the climbing world.