Is there a course you do?

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SNORT
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
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Re: Is there a course you do?

Post by SNORT » Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:03 pm

I am fully aware of the UP and its variants of which there are a few. Have played with it. They are quite bulky and heavy esp compared to the Joule

The anchor can be anywhere as long as your waist is in front of it or below it even by a few cm. It is not critical by the way if that particular anchor fails as you will merely lose the locking ability and go into normal belay mode with a tiny jolt on your body as there will be a small give equivalent to a following climber falling a few cm. Obviously your own stability is important so you need to be seated or secured relatively tight to bomb proof anchors if you are standing which is relatively unstable.

I would not recommend the hybrid system or pulley system or guide or any system that directly loads a dodgy anchor system and in that case solid stable sitting down with belay directly to your harness feeding in the rope continuously and not allowing any slack is essential.

If the anchor is below you then that's also OK but you would then have to only use it in guide mode as your harness belay loop is above. It is a bit awkward leaning down and feeding in the rope. However with it below you it is very easy to unlock as you have lots of leverage. Of course you can turn round go down to below the anchor and set up the system but facing the rock in an identical way in a semi-hanging stance.

In that regard you can set up the system if you are standing on a ledge facing inwards or outwards if the anchors are above you. With the locking guide system close to your waist it is much easier to release than when it is above you. You could argue that you can get the same effect by setting the guide system lower on a sling. But that is very floppy. By attaching it t your harness as well it stabilizes the system and there is less friction in feeding the rope.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Is there a course you do?

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Feb 26, 2018 9:34 am



Contrary to popular belief it seems that a direct belay off a very tight anchor is actually a better idea than belaying off your body.
Happy climbing
Nic

BruceDaniel
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Re: Is there a course you do?

Post by BruceDaniel » Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:28 am

Seems like in these tests the belayer is a lot lighter than the 75kg "leader" that is falling. I face the same scenario when my son belays 80kg plus me.
I have solved this problem with an edelrid OHM which is now available in SA. It works very well but is applicable to indoor/sport climbing only.

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Is there a course you do?

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:50 am

I think the interesting data, contrary to conventional wisdom, is that belaying off the stance reduces loads, possibly due to more slippage of rope. More rope moves through the belay device than with the harness belay, but I suspect the fall distance is going to be roughly the same as the belayer is not picked up.

You can also build a much tighter stance (it can be closer to the wall) if you do a belay directly off it than if you are fastened to into it and need to stand back from the wall.
Happy climbing
Nic

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