Is there a course you do?

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Re: Is there a course you do?

Post by Tristan » Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:58 pm

Thanks for the description. It does solve some of the inherent snags of the direct belay and clearly is a good mix to suite the style which you prefer (sitting).
My initial thoughts (though I'd like to try it out) is that in order to lock the guide-ring (attached via clove hitch to anchor) would need to take the load so that implies a sound anchor behind you being sound and then, for me, the added anchor of the seat not being needed? And there are some caveats wrt knots / prussik but still.
This sounds like a good option when the anchors are low relative to the ledge. Again, interesting, thanks for the explanation.

BTW Rock Technologies make this contraption called the Alpine Up which can do all-level of things, including lock/release and abseil with locking function.
I have one if you'd like to play with it.

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Re: Is there a course you do?

Post by SNORT » Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:03 pm

I am fully aware of the UP and its variants of which there are a few. Have played with it. They are quite bulky and heavy esp compared to the Joule

The anchor can be anywhere as long as your waist is in front of it or below it even by a few cm. It is not critical by the way if that particular anchor fails as you will merely lose the locking ability and go into normal belay mode with a tiny jolt on your body as there will be a small give equivalent to a following climber falling a few cm. Obviously your own stability is important so you need to be seated or secured relatively tight to bomb proof anchors if you are standing which is relatively unstable.

I would not recommend the hybrid system or pulley system or guide or any system that directly loads a dodgy anchor system and in that case solid stable sitting down with belay directly to your harness feeding in the rope continuously and not allowing any slack is essential.

If the anchor is below you then that's also OK but you would then have to only use it in guide mode as your harness belay loop is above. It is a bit awkward leaning down and feeding in the rope. However with it below you it is very easy to unlock as you have lots of leverage. Of course you can turn round go down to below the anchor and set up the system but facing the rock in an identical way in a semi-hanging stance.

In that regard you can set up the system if you are standing on a ledge facing inwards or outwards if the anchors are above you. With the locking guide system close to your waist it is much easier to release than when it is above you. You could argue that you can get the same effect by setting the guide system lower on a sling. But that is very floppy. By attaching it t your harness as well it stabilizes the system and there is less friction in feeding the rope.

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