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What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:30 pm
by kaoleenaz
I go climbing every week at a climbing gym and I would like to buy my own shoes. It's indoor climbing (hence the gym part) but we just boulder, not so much top rope it. The group I go with was planning to also go bouldering outside sometime soon, but I think my primary use would be climbing shoes meant for inside use. What shape would be best? What brands are good?
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Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:39 pm
by Garron
Here is a quick guide, http://eveningsends.com/2011/09/guide-t ... ing-shoes/ there are quite a few on the web.

Basically it depends a lot on your feet, your style and your pocket.
I find most brands are good and basically the more you pay the better the quality/performance.

Get something that is comfortable but tight and does not have any dead spots or hot spots.
For bouldering velcros or slippers are convenient.
I would recommend getting a soft shoe over a stiff shoe but this is my personal preference.

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:16 pm
by Forket
5.10 Dragon if you into it already
Madrock Flash if u new at the game and looking for a shoe that will last, is cheap and does the job.

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:10 pm
by Nic Le Maitre
Don't buy too tight, some shoes will not stretch (especially lined ones), the shoes should fit your foot closely but not crunch your toes. Get flat shoes rather than one's with a very aggressive curve to the sole. Laces give the best adjustability but take long to put on/take off. Buy cheaper shoes initially at least until you are sure that climbing is something you want, so don't rush out and buy some La Sportiva Testarossas just yet... Try every brand and model that you can.

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:40 pm
by ant
Agree with all the above

- Different brands are made from diferent Lasts (templates) - none or better or worse, but some brands you'll just find fit your personal foot better.
- They should have a good, snug fit, bordering on tight, but they should still be comfortable. The advice from the 80's of buying 2 sizes too small has been discredited. No 'dead spots' as Garron says.
- Your first pair should be a fairly 'standard' shoe design. If in 12 months time you are still loving it and rising through the grades, then you can buy a more 'technical' or 'aggressive' shoe according to your style. In this case you will still be wanting to wear your 'training' shoes at the bouldering wall and not your nice sending shoes.
- Re your style and stiffness of shoe - most people prefer middle to soft end, so don't buy something particularly stiff for your first pair.

Remember that 9as have been sent in most of the popular brands of shoes. :-)

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:04 pm
by Forket
i dont agree with nic, any hard climber will tell u, if your shoe is too big u might aswell be wearing crocks or boots. Make sure they fit tight, shoes stretch with reason, If u can fit your foot into a shoe, then it will stretch to the shape of your foot. Ive seen people use plastic at the heel to make it easier for their foot to fit in, this is how people do it.

Ebert
if ur shoe is to small, sweat it out and they will fit nice and snug

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:32 pm
by Chris F
I think this may be spam judging by the embedded links.

I'll be surprised if the OP ever says anything else.

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:36 pm
by Forket
Chris F wrote:I think this may be spam judging by the embedded links.

I'll be surprised if the OP ever says anything else.
nah thats how they takin the net these days:l its everywhere

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:28 am
by rgjiris
Thanks everyone.
I am a newbie here. I know I have much to learn.

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:54 pm
by Warren G
Buy the shoe that fits. Ignore comments demanding you wear uncomfortable shoes: this is about enjoying the sport, not suffering through it.

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 2:11 pm
by Thermophage
Go try on a bunch :)
In my opinion, avoid Evolv as they tend to be way more uncomfortable than the others. But it depends on your personal preference.
I'd also recommend not buying a completely entry level shoe. Something in between is your best bet as it will last you longer and will perform better :)

Re: What kind of climbing shoes should I get?

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:03 pm
by DavidWade
Forket wrote:i dont agree with nic, any hard climber will tell u, if your shoe is too big u might aswell be wearing crocks or boots. Make sure they fit tight, shoes stretch with reason, If u can fit your foot into a shoe, then it will stretch to the shape of your foot. Ive seen people use plastic at the heel to make it easier for their foot to fit in, this is how people do it.

Ebert
if ur shoe is to small, sweat it out and they will fit nice and snug
Not all hard climbers climb with shoes that kill them.
Tight is good, but super tight is overrated.