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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:26 am
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Location: London, United Kingdom
Real Name: Stephen Martindale
I was doing a pre-weekend gear-sort, last night, and noticed that one of my prusik loops has gone walkabouts. I guess it's time to make some new ones.

This time, I want to go with something a bit thinner because I now have skinny (8.5 mm) trad. ropes.

What width of utility cord should I use? What are the minimalist, realist and paranoid options?

How long should the cord be before tying, for that/those width(s)?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:15 pm
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Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Craig Burden
Hi Stephen,

I personally use 6mm cord and I carry various lengths of prussik as they are useful in different situations. I pretty good length is roughly 25cm loop which translates to 60cm of cord. Just make sure that you buy very supple cord, it bites much better and suffers less from twisting.

Just don't go trad climbing without them! If you do make sure that your partner is either awesome and can hoist you or can call rescue :)

Craig

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:34 pm 
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Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
You might struggle with 6mm on 8mm. 4mm or 5mm would be better and both are more than strong enough for body weight.

Craig is right about the suppleness. Soft cord bites better and is easier to release

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 6:47 pm 
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Real Name: Pieter du Toit
4mm will do fine ... as long as its purple :thumright

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:53 pm 
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Real Name: Stephen Martindale
Thanks, all.

I bought some 4mm cord and it performed brilliantly on many descents from limestone routes in the South West of England, this weekend past - including one good session of hanging about, extracting stuck stoppers. It does bite much more effectively than my old 6mm ones used to.

For the record, 60cm is well too short, even for skinny ropes, particularly if you want to tie a French prusik.

I used one metre per loop and made them both the same length - they aren't likely to be used for anything that would require them to sit, nicely, next to each other.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 8:10 am 
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Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Xharlie wrote:
I used one metre per loop and made them both the same length - they aren't likely to be used for anything that would require them to sit, nicely, next to each other.


Not much call for the use of prusik minding pulleys in your current activities?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 1:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:26 am
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Real Name: Stephen Martindale
Nic: We did some investigation but ruled it out - one can't really get anywhere in a hurry with only a bicycle and trains.

(One can have a lot of fun going places very, very slowly, with a bicycle, but that is a different matter entirely.)

We are currently gloating about our budget trad. outing: the fact that we achieved two good climbing days without requiring leave, for under £200 all up, is honestly incredible. When you aren't getting much, you take what you can get, I suppose.


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