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advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 1:58 pm
by nicororus
Need some advice....

I'm new to climbing and loving it!! Need to get my feet into my own shoes. With so many shoes on the market and so many online reviews how does one decide? Lace ups or Velcro? Gym or outdoor? I'm a regular in the gyms and can't wait to get onto real rock.

I've had my eye on the evolve shamans..or LA sportive mythos.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:21 pm
by BrianG
Came across this on Youtube - Videos for fitting Sportivas - found it pretty useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAjTLsG8sjo

Good luck.

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:24 pm
by Wes
I would advise on going for a slightly cheaper pair when you start out. As you foot work wont be particularly good and, especially in the Gym, you will eat through the rubber very quickly. Once you have been climbing for a while, you will end up having a gym pair and an outdoor pair.

I prefer the velcro especially if you are climbing a lot in doors. It is easier to take on and off.

A big thing is how tight to get it. If you are starting out, dont go to tight, but also remember that shoes stretch. Often the first few climbs your feet will ache, but it does ease. Just remember you aren't climbing on crazy small foot holds just yet. Make sure your shoes are comfortable, but tight.

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:44 pm
by JessJardimWedepohl
Velcro all the way! Just as a personal thing, laces are a giant pain in the ass to take on and off 20 times in a session.

The Shamans you are eyeing up are amazing and I've heard great reviews, but ultimately don't set your heart on anything until you try a few pairs on. Reviews are all well and good but a lot depends on the shape of your particular foot. The Shamans might also be too aggressive for a beginner - not a huge downside, but you do want to factor that in.

Bottom line, don't buy without trying on. Sizes are different across the brands, and within those brands the sizing will also differ from model to model. Got to get them on your feet.

Where are you based?

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:21 pm
by nicororus
I'm based in jhb. Thanks for the advice. Not sure if it makes my decision any easier!!

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:22 pm
by nicororus
I'm based in jhb. Thanks for the advice. Not sure if it makes my decision any easier!!

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:22 pm
by PeterHS
I don't know what happened to my reply ...... but you ask a question that all of us have asked to start with. Here are some random thoughts:

- Don't buy until you're sure you have got the bug and are committed to the sport. It's possible to borrow from friends or hire until then. There's nothing worse that having a pair of prized R1500 shoes sitting unused in the bottom of your wardrobe.

- Look around for secondhand (often near new) shoes if you have the time. Put the word out among friends, here, on Gumtree, in the gym and elsewhere. If you're patient and a good negotiator, it's quite possible to pick up a pair of R1500 shoes for around R500.

- More expensive is not necessarily better - for a beginner. I had my eye on a top of the range pair and was thankfully warned off. Ask at your gym for their advice. The top of the range shoes might have looked cool but were way above my ability and technique as a beginner.

- Above all, comfort comfort comfort! They're supposed to be tight and will be to start. Try on as many pairs in your gym shop as you can. There's no substitute for a pair that is comfortable to wear and brings confidence.

Stay safe and good luck,

Peter

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:24 pm
by mokganjetsi
over the years i have dropped two sizes in my climbing shoes as my feet hardened. like the guys said above: go for the right fit and affordability at first; as you start to climb harder routes you will downsize and go for more aggressive shoes (typically pricier). evolv & mad rock are probably your best value-for-money brands in SA.

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:57 pm
by JessJardimWedepohl
Perfect! Come into the gear shop at CityROCK and get fitted. The guys are really willing to answer any questions you might have. It's worth your while to make sure your shoes fit properly, and I can assure you we don't mind if you need to try on every shoe in the shop before you find The One.

(Yes, I am a CityROCK employee, but we're the best.)

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 6:45 pm
by PeterHS
And just when you thought you were almost in the clear ...... Let me throw a boulder in the way ....

Do you climb with or without socks?

Answers here on a "post" card (get it - hehe). I don't wear socks but many do. For the record, I am told not wearing socks is better as it means your toes and feet are more in contact and there's less likely slippage inside the shoe. Again, it's a personal preference.

But, for the moment, that's far above my climbing grade ....

P

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 10:55 pm
by vinceB
My two advices would be: 1) Try a lot of pairs; 2) Take your time. Just try a lot of shoes and slowly narrow down the choice to the ones which are fitting your feet.

As per the sizes:
- 5.10 and Evolv are usually sizing your street size.
- La Sportiva is usually your street size minus 1.5/2 (EU) except for the Genius and Futuras which are sitting at a good minus 3.5/4 (!)

Have fun!

Re: advice on new shoes

Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 7:58 am
by nicororus
Great advice...thanks to you all. I'll let you know which pair I get and how it performs. You guys are champions!