Beginner trad routes - ideas, where, can't wait!

If you are a beginner climber and want to ask other climbers any questions - then this is the place to ask.
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Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:50 am
Real Name: Peter Hedley-Smith
Location: Cape Town

Beginner trad routes - ideas, where, can't wait!

Post by PeterHS » Mon Jun 06, 2016 10:30 am

Hi all.

Which trad beginner routes do you recommend? I'm looking for ones that are easy to find the start of - not always as easy as that sounds! - as well as fun to climb. Single and multi-pitch. I've got the trad bug and just want to explore and climb .... Where's best?

Table Mountain
Lion's Head
Elsewhere in and around Cape Town

What did you do first? Enjoy doing?

TIA as always.


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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Beginner trad routes - ideas, where, can't wait!

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:03 pm

Frazer's Variation/Sparkplug
Arrow Final
Africa Crag with the first pitch of Africa Wall to get to Upper Africa (or just the pitches from Upper Africa)
Cobblestone Face

Atlantic Wall (climb the LEFT side of the block on the first pitch, the RD is wrong)
White Face

Bunch of fairly easy routes at non-sandbag grades.
Not Just A Pretty Face stands out

Not so much in the very easy grades but lots around the 15 level that are great.
Little Red Rooster
Grand Mere
(a bunch of routes around Grand Mere)

(some routes at the Northern End)
Happy climbing

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Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu/Cape Town

Re: Beginner trad routes - ideas, where, can't wait!

Post by Justin » Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:25 pm

Crack of Dawn (17) at Lakeside Pinnacle (very well protected).

See also: Trad Hit List
Climb ZA - Administrator

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Real Name: Willem Boshoff
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Re: Beginner trad routes - ideas, where, can't wait!

Post by mokganjetsi » Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:50 pm

if you start leading i suggest single pitch - takes the headiness somewhat out of it and you can focus on climbing & placing good gear. most important thing for a beginner is the ability to build a good stance; learn the theoretical ropes and then go practice; preferably with an experienced traddie to crit your placements and build.

Lion's Head Geo Cache and Clifton sectors are easy access and takes good gear - I take most 1st time leaders out to do only the Gendarme-level pitches of Clifton Crest and Aquanaut - both 35m grade 15 pitches with big top ledge and abseil anchors.

ps: some of the easier stuff in the Cederberg has low quality rock; rather climb slightly harder routes on good rock with good gear than easy stuff on crap rock / bad gear

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