Soreness on fingertip joints

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ildsarria
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:13 pm
Real Name: Iva Sarria

Soreness on fingertip joints

Post by ildsarria » Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:35 pm

I'm curious about my sore fingers, as everything I read or everyone I speak to has pain everywhere else except on the finger tips like me.

From google it looks like its called A5 I'm not sure, but its the joint/knuckle of mainly my middle finger, and less so index finger and even less so ring fingers that get sore, and slightly red. What am I doing wrong? Why these and not the ones that come up most commonly on search results A2/base of fingers? I don't get sore otherwise from climbing (I'm doing lead indoor climbing).

Also what are the best preventative or strengthening methods, I know about the finger shaking one and putty? Anything else or better?

Thank you

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emile
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Real Name: OneDog

Re: Soreness on fingertip joints

Post by emile » Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:01 am

While I cannot give you specific advice, I can tell you how my right hand "joint/knuckle of mainly my middle finger"....

I was minding my own business one lazy autumn night, feeling a little peckish I headed into the kitchen and as I opened the fridge door I was attacked by a 5kg bag of cat food lurking on top. Thanks to my CIA-Ninja reflexes I managed to sidestep the worst of the assault but my instinct to save the weak also kicked in causing me to try and catch the cretin trying to cause me bodily harm.

So my middle finger is still a little sore on that knuckle joint, it's been +- 6 months. It's almost gone, but I can still feel it. Take it easy, it will get better.

grae22
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Real Name: Graeme B
Location: KZN

Re: Soreness on fingertip joints

Post by grae22 » Wed Sep 19, 2018 10:21 am

I have similar pain at the moment - most noticeable when making a tight fist.

It's more a dull than sharp pain and I assume it'll improve with time as my fingers get stronger. I've been climbing ~7 months, 3 or 4 times a week (in & outdoors).

If it became a sharp pain I'd probably try and rest a bit.

I've got a stressball at work I use sometimes for crimping and pinching... but tbh sometimes I think my fingers benefit more from just having some rest :wink:

ildsarria
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:13 pm
Real Name: Iva Sarria

Re: Soreness on fingertip joints

Post by ildsarria » Wed Sep 19, 2018 1:26 pm

Ah so its normal, just found weird nobody talks about these tip joints. Thanks Emile. good luck with the fridge grae22 :P

Chris F
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Soreness on fingertip joints

Post by Chris F » Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:24 pm

Are you crimping loads? If so that will be it. I rub mine a lot with my thumb. seems to help a bit.

ildsarria
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:13 pm
Real Name: Iva Sarria

Re: Soreness on fingertip joints

Post by ildsarria » Fri Sep 21, 2018 7:26 am

Not too much Chris, I'm only doing 18-20s leads & top ropes, with big holds, and often angled walls that have those bigger holds.
But it does seem to be worse on climbs with those small holds, I've seen what a crimp is but I never do that, with the thumb over the top, I just grab however I can to not fall :)
I read somewhere it could be from the fingers being cold when you start climbing and hurting the joints that way. So I'm going to try that now. Hoping its just that, since I recall now there was no problem in summer!

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