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 Post subject: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:27 pm
Posts: 144
Location: East London
Real Name: Matthew Bekker
The old age question we been asking since the start!!.
Into my sport climbing but now i want something a little bit more uncertain! TRAD climbing!!!! now i know that a wall nut is just a passive safety device and a CAM is strong like bull!! buy wall nuts or so much cheaper plus you can but them in packs like beer!! My Question is this is it worth going the cheaper route with wallnuts when your life is a risk...kinda just answered my own question there! if you do seem to be going towards CAMS then what sort of make should you go? and can you buy them in sets for a good price? And where would you be able to buy a cheaper make in Cape Town or on the net as i live in East London where climbing is sadly not really known!


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 689
You'll need both sooner or later. Cams are not good because they are stronger, they are good because they work in places where nuts just won't. You might find it hard to get a place for a nut to stick in a parallel crack, where a cam is way easier to place. That being said, cams did not always exist. Neither did nuts for that matter. Unless you have a lot of money, buy a set of nuts first and then start investing in cams. I have also found the really big nuts are not very useful (size 11 and up), rather get some hexes. The problem with those big nuts are they don't stick well. I once placed one of those in a crack after a rather long run-out and as I climbed passed it, it came out. I had to carefully place it back again with my feet and give it a good carefully aimed kick to try and make it stick. A hex would not have been a problem there, but I didn't have one on me. All the brands are good enough, but my personal favourite would be wild country for almost everything. Their nuts seems to stick better, their friends are a little lighter and a little cheaper than Black Diamonds cams and their hexes have slings instead of wires. I think the wires makes the hexes a heck of lot more useless. For small cams the Black Diamond c3's are really great, the are just wickedly expensive. It is also not true that you'll be safer with a more expensive cams. Nothing is safer than a bomber nut.


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 130
Unless you're taking big whippers onto micronuts, you're not going to break a nut. Placement is an issue for nuts, but so too for cams.

Bottom line is that you can do a LOT more climbing on R2k of passive gear (nuts/hexes) than R2k of active gear (cams). :thumleft:

Just avoid those wired hexes :puker:


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:27 pm
Posts: 144
Location: East London
Real Name: Matthew Bekker
Thanks guys think ill take you advive and go for some nuts first and a good few hexes is it better to just buy in bulk to be safe?and maybe 1 small cam just to keep the gear guys happy! The WildCountry rockcentrics look really not badly price aswell maybe i should go for a set of nut and a set of hexes what you guys think instead of cams,The cracks that ill start on are mainly large delorite rock cracks where a hex fitted to the side might work!


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 689
just a suggestion: go climb with someone before you buy gear. It will give you a much clearer picture if you watch and learn by cleaning a few routes and place gear while you're still on the ground and tug it with a sling in different directions to get the hang of it.

Phone the suppliers to ask them for bulk discounts.

I have never climbed on dolerite before and I've never climbed without cams either, so I can't help there. Snort posted a pretty cool message about what sort of rack works for most stuff (it was specific to the magaliesberg though).


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Posts: 706
Location: Port Elizabeth
Real Name: Derek Marshall
On average cams suite Dolorite, but you will need both cams & nuts. Start with what you can afford. Very quickly you will have it all.


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 7
As Marshall1 says, start with what you can afford... If you are going to be playing on some cracks that are within a certain size range, perhaps it would make sense to buy a few pieces to fit the rock routes that you have in mind? Sound like some hexes and #3-4 camalots are what you might be after. Not a fan of the Wild Country friends - they seem less stable to me.


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 3:16 pm
Posts: 15
This is a really simple answer. Climbing was around for a long time before Ray Jardine convinced Mark to Vallance to start Wild Country and begin making "Friends". Start with a rack of nuts and some Hexes. The hex is still underrated as protection and can be more secure and reliable and easier to place for a beginner than a Cam. Use the money you save on cams initially to afford a much lighter set of nuts and hexes and quick draws. Add in a few slings or make your own with 6ml cord or tape, and you have a rack better than most pioneers of the HVS-E2 grades (?SA equivalent). The main point to remember is then not to try and push the grade to early. Keep realistic. Then Go climbing after a bank holiday or weekend on popular easy classics and start collecting abandoned gear left by beginners. In time splash out on a couple of friends. The newer cam's are far superior than the stuff around only 10 years ago, wait until you can afford the best you can as you will only want to upgrade in a few years time after trying something better. Check out the Metolius Supercam, shit its a piece of work with a huge camming range.
I hope Trad climbing grips you, It opens so much more rock to explore.
killy


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 Post subject: Re: Cams VS Wallnuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 12:56 pm
Posts: 42
Location: SA
Get a copy of John Long's book "Climbing Anchors", it is part of the yellow-and-black How to Climb series and is probably the best book around on placing natural (trad) protection. Well written, some nice humor, lots of photos of placements and good analysis and suggestions


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