Second or third ascents

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Wes B
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 9:49 pm
Real Name: Wesley Black

Second or third ascents

Post by Wes B » Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:58 pm

I was just wondering why their are many 4 or 5 star climbs that are unrepeated? for example we were in tonqoani and climbing i think stone needle and right next to stone needle was a climb called c'est la vie (such is life) first climbed by Roger Nattrass. Ok its trad but the crux is protected by bolts and it has a five star rating. It looked hard but super fun so we decided to, well i decided to give it a blast next time. Same with some sport routes at fern kloof like aqualung (32) and a will to cower (30) for sure they are hard but i dont think they have had a 2nd ascent. Maybe im wierd but the thought of getting a sweet, rare second ascent is way more appealing and meaningful than just sending a well climbed route.

Just a thought but please let me know what you guys think. :idea:

MarkM
Posts: 304
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 5:39 pm
Location: JHB

Re: Second or third ascents

Post by MarkM » Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:04 pm

I know C'est la vie has been repeated, I've played on it too and it's not that hard, there it a bit of a run out to the piton/nut lower off which is apparently the really scary part. I don't think the other two have seen repeats but both are hard. Curly Steve is putting some energy into A Will to Cower so that could see a 2nd ascent fairly soon.

Pedley also has an unrepeated project (30/31??) just left of Acromax (ends at the same set of chains), which is open to the public, so you could claim ultimate glory and nab the FA :wink:
Open hand, open mind...

Flex
Posts: 123
Joined: Thu May 10, 2007 9:31 am

Re: Second or third ascents

Post by Flex » Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:36 pm

I agree with Mark, why go for the 2nd ascents when there are open projects to nab.
I bolted 2 routes at Wigwam (Moose Knuckle and Scratchy Apache - the 2 lines between Tomahawk and Last of the Mohicans) that are free for anyone to try. If you do happen to open them just please keep the names.

MarkM
Posts: 304
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 5:39 pm
Location: JHB

Re: Second or third ascents

Post by MarkM » Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:48 am

It is a unique South African tradition. You can attempt to change the name but we (the SA climbing community) will keep the one we like best no matter how cool or how cool the stroy is behind the new name a'la StreetFighter/2toWin.
Open hand, open mind...

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